I have a ’01 929, several times in the past, under heavy acceleration the bike would cut off. I had to shut it down before I could start it again. This last time it cut off on me it hasn’t started again. One noticeable difference is when I turn the engine switch in the RUN position and turn the ignition key to ON there is no primer noise from the fuel pump. The FI indicator goes out and the MIL light comes on and stays on. To the service manual I go.

In the PGM-FI SELF –DIAGNOSIS MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP FAILURE CODES section of the service manual it states that the cause is either a short circuit in service check connector wire or a faulty ECM. The manual also states the symptoms are that the engine operates normally. The problem is that the engine does not run.

Since there was no code, MIL not blinking, my next step was to do the self- diagnostic procedures to check the memory for troubled data and see if another code came up. I turned the ignition switch OFF. I short the PGM-FI system service check connector terminals using a jumper wire. I turned the ignition switch ON and engine stop switch RUN. The MIL stays on, does not blink, which indicates no memory data in the ECM.

So I decided to reset the self-diagnosis procedure by turning the engine stop switch to RUN and ignition switch to OFF. Short the service check connector of the PGM-FI system using a jumper wire. Turn the ignition switch ON. Remove the jumper wire. While the MIL lights short the service check connector again with the jumper wire. The MIL is supposed to turn off and start blinking. It did not it never went out. It stays on the whole time.

With no help from the PGM-FI self diagnosis tests. I started from the very beginning. I turn the bike ON, engine switch to RUN and no noise from the fuel pump trying to prime. Bad fuel pump? I go to the fuel pump section in the service manual. I disconnect the fuel pump connector. I turned the ignition switch to ON and measured the voltage between the terminals, Brown + Green -. There was no voltage. I tested the voltage again this time Brown + and grounded the negative prong of the voltmeter to the engine block. No voltage. I then measured voltage between the Brown/Black + Green -. Had plenty of voltage. I tried the Brown/Black + and grounded to the engine block. Had plenty of voltage. So I tested the Brown + again and got nothing. I wanted to eliminate the fact that the fuel pump was not bad. I hooked up the fuel pump straight to the battery terminal, Brown + Green -. The pump came on. Now I know the fuel pump is good.

The fuel pump is not getting any power to run it. The Service Manual suggests that I check the “Main fuel 30A” (main “fuse”? maybe?); Sub fuse 10A, 20A; Engine stop switch; fuel cut relay; engine stop relay; and bank angle sensor. The main fuse 30A was fine as well as the two sub fuses, 10A and 20A. I disconnected the engine stop switch and tested the continuity between the wire terminals and had continuity. I then tested the fuel cut relay. I disconnected the fuel cut relay connector and removed the fuel cut relay. I connected the ohmmeter to the fuel cut relay, Black/White – Brown. I connected the fuel cut relay Brown/Black – Black/White, to a 12V battery and got continuity. So the fuel cut relay is good. Next is the engine stop relay. I disconnected the engine stop relay connector and removed the engine stop relay. I connected the ohmmeter to the engine stop relay terminals, Red/White – Black/White. I connected a 12V battery to the engine stop relay, Red/Orange – Black. I got continuity. The engine stop relay is good. Now I am on the bank angle sensor. I turned the ignition switch ON and measured the voltage. I got voltage between White (+) Green (-). And I got voltage between Red/White (+) Green (-). This means the bank angle sensor works. The last thing the service manual suggests I check is the ECM. In order to check the ECM I need an ECU test har

 

Wow. Well written and nice troubleshooting. My old 1990 doesn't much of that stuff, but my radiator does have a sensor. Well, it's more of an on/off switch for the cooling fan. But your sensor must tie coolant temp to the fuel injection. See how much the sensor is at Ron Ayers, then see if your dealer has it.

 

If you are getting 3 slow blinks, then 4 fast ones, this means 34, not 7. The manual states a slow blink (1.3 seconds) is the same as 10 fast blinks.

I am having similar problems with a bike I am rebuilding, so I was in the manual last night :} Not sure what 34 is, though.

 

Same bike, same year....one day, my bike did the same thing. I had no idea wht happened. I push started the bike and it ran. But once I stopped it, it would not start again. I took it to Wal-Mart TLE and they checked it out for me since I worked part time there. It comes out that my grounding wire was loose. I had never touched it but it was loose. They cleaned and tightened it up and i've never had the problem since.

 

Did you ever find out what was wrong with your bike, 9two9? I'm having similar problems with my f4i.