So before I installed my power commander, my 02 f4i with a shorty two brothers pipe was running just fine. Before the install, it would rev up to almost 3000 and stay there until it hit 97 degrees. No check engine light and no unsteady idle. So i bought a power commander from someone on this site and he already had a map installed on it. I figured Id try his map before trying the stock one that power commander has on their website. So I installed it, turned the bike over and it was running like ****. Struggling to stay on, weak idle. Just as I was about to turn the bike off the FI light came on. I took the power commander off and started it up. Rpms stay at 1000 for 2 seconds after turning it on and then the FI light comes on and the idle revs to 3000 then ranges from 1500 - 3000. Its also died on me a couple times. Sometimes when I start it after its warm it doesnt want to stay on. I have to rev it up and get moving so the bike stays on. (only sometimes)

I was gonna get a custom map but I figured I should install it first. I think after I installed the power commander it was running really rich because it reaked of gas.

Im getting a code 10 on the cluster: faulty atmospheric (barometric) sensor or wiring.

thanks in advance

 

Is your bike california model?
I read this about PC3 on morepowerracing website:
Optional Oxygen Sensor Eliminator is required for California and some oversea's models

 

No, its not a california model theres no O2 sensor.

 

Code 10 is intake air temp, check the sensor on the air box under the gas tank.

 

thats not what im reading here. Did I miss something?

F4i FI light codes

 

All my Honda lists don't have a code #10. You can't flash a 0. Are you sure you it's a 10?

 

I dont have an F4i but I do have a F4, and looking at the chart you provided it states that code 10 is available only on the '99 and '00 model. Seeing as the F4 is carb'ed I doubt it can throw FI codes at you, so not sure how accurate that chart is... Hope this gets fixed soon!

Later on:
A long blink = "10"
A short blink = "1"
DNS = Engine does not start
EON = Engine operates normally

And I quote (i.e. don't shoot the messenger):

BLINKS : PROBLEM, SYMPTOMS
No blinks: ECM malfunction, DNS
No blinks: ECM power / ground circuit malfunction, DNS
No blinks: ECM output line malfunction, DNS
No blinks: MIL circuit malfunction, EON
Stays lit: Data link circuit malfunction, EON
1 blink: MAP sensor circuit malfunction, EON
2 blinks: MAP sensor performance problem, EON
7 blinks: ECT sensor circuit malfunction, Hard start at low temp
8 blinks: TP sensor circuit malfunction, Poor performance on quick throttle operation
9 blinks: IAT sensor circuit malfunction, EON
11 blinks: Vehicle speed sensor circuit malfunction, EON
12 blinks: No. 1 Primary injector malfunction, DNS
13 blinks: No. 2 Primary injector malfunction, DNS
14 blinks: No. 3 Primary injector malfunction, DNS
15 blinks: No. 4 Primary injector malfunction, DNS
16 blinks: No. 1 Secondary injector malfunction, DNS
17 blinks: No. 2 Secondary injector malfunction, DNS
18 blinks: Cam pulse generator, no signal, DNS
19 blinks: Ignition pulse generator, no signal, DNS
21 blinks: No. 1 O2 sensor circuit malfunction (California only) , EON
22 blinks: No. 2 O2 sensor circuit malfunction (California only), EON
23 blinks: No. 1 O2 sensor heater malfunction (California only), EON
24 blinks: No. 2 O2 sensor heater malfunction (California only), EON
33 blinks: E2-PROM in ECM malfunction, EON
48 blinks: No. 3 Secondary injector malfunction, DNS
49 blinks: No. 4 Secondary injector malfunction , DNS

 

Is it possible that they were 2 long blinks (Code 20) instead of one (Code 10)? Faulty EPROM in ECM