Speed Sensor issue
#1
Speed Sensor issue
Ok, I did a cursory search but have not really found a similar issue (or at least I think I didn't).
After a chain and sprockets change (525 to 520, stock gearing) it seems my speed sensor is on the fritz. My speedo will jump around until the engine warms up. And then, if it has stopped working and the engine is at least at about 145^, which is usually the case, I have to slow to about 20 mph before it will start working again. Once it does, it's good until the engine cools off. So I tore it half way down to see if I could see the sensor, maybe try to clean it up, but it looks like a job just to get to it. I took off the tank and air box, but did not take off the TB's. Has anyone changed this out? Any suggestions on an easy way to do it (other than just living with it until it quits all together)?
Thanks in advance,
After a chain and sprockets change (525 to 520, stock gearing) it seems my speed sensor is on the fritz. My speedo will jump around until the engine warms up. And then, if it has stopped working and the engine is at least at about 145^, which is usually the case, I have to slow to about 20 mph before it will start working again. Once it does, it's good until the engine cools off. So I tore it half way down to see if I could see the sensor, maybe try to clean it up, but it looks like a job just to get to it. I took off the tank and air box, but did not take off the TB's. Has anyone changed this out? Any suggestions on an easy way to do it (other than just living with it until it quits all together)?
Thanks in advance,
#2
it is difficult to gain a clean reach at the speed sensor but it can be done without removing the TB .. here is the trick.
when you do this you will have to move electrical out of the way and then move your coolant line out of the way..
when you move the coolant line you need to use something that can hold it in place for the full duration of the job.
tip for fuel tank slide it all the way forward to rest the air intake arches on the triples.. dont even need to remove the air box.. i literally had to mess with a few things down there before i went riding the other day..
you should have plenty of access and i would swap the sensor before you srt fumbling with the wires. that opens right to your trans.. anything falls in and you will be trying to dig it out or dropping the pan or even worse splitting the case.
i hope that helps .. good luck.. as for it being the speed sensor i do not know the proper steps to diagnose if it is or is not..
it's probably in the service manual
little common sense and practical efforts you should be able to get it done without a hiccup
when you do this you will have to move electrical out of the way and then move your coolant line out of the way..
when you move the coolant line you need to use something that can hold it in place for the full duration of the job.
tip for fuel tank slide it all the way forward to rest the air intake arches on the triples.. dont even need to remove the air box.. i literally had to mess with a few things down there before i went riding the other day..
you should have plenty of access and i would swap the sensor before you srt fumbling with the wires. that opens right to your trans.. anything falls in and you will be trying to dig it out or dropping the pan or even worse splitting the case.
i hope that helps .. good luck.. as for it being the speed sensor i do not know the proper steps to diagnose if it is or is not..
it's probably in the service manual
little common sense and practical efforts you should be able to get it done without a hiccup
#3
Thanks for the advice. I have ordered the new part from Service Honda and hope to have it shortly (by tomorrow but not holding my breath). I Did find a how to on the swap. I'll post up on how it went and if I used a different set of steps.
#4
Replaced the speed sensor this evening. Start to finish took about 2.5 hours, max. I chose to pull the shock. Lifting the tank, removing the two upper subframe bolts, loosening the two lower subframe bolts, and then removing the shock appeared to give me the greatest access. It would have taken a little less time if I had lifted the tank before attempting to remove the top subframe bolts. Sorry for not taking pic's, but I was more concerned with getting the job done. I can do a how to later if someone would like. Just let me know.
#6
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