So disappointed can anyone help?
ORIGINAL: dankryder
I looked again at the back connectors theres only 2 and 1 for license, 2 for tail light / brake light. But I just turned the key and the FUEL PUMP is not turning on. I could have sworn I heard it before, going to take tank off now and check to see if something got left disconnected.
I looked again at the back connectors theres only 2 and 1 for license, 2 for tail light / brake light. But I just turned the key and the FUEL PUMP is not turning on. I could have sworn I heard it before, going to take tank off now and check to see if something got left disconnected.
Did you completely remove the tank? - IE Connectors, etc. - or just what was needed (nothing electrical) to get the PC installed?
Nothing is disconnected. I disconnected the PC and plugged the org back in, and same thing. Its not making the "wizzing" noice when I first turn the key. Fuel pump has a connector where?
edit : no didn't remove tank just top and bottom 2 bolts and side plastics and friend lifted it up. I looked there is no other connectors for the PC only the ones *wrong ones* over the rear shock.
I know its the fuel pump it has to be.
edit : no didn't remove tank just top and bottom 2 bolts and side plastics and friend lifted it up. I looked there is no other connectors for the PC only the ones *wrong ones* over the rear shock.
I know its the fuel pump it has to be.
Yes it sounds exactly like it is going to start but it just doesn't. I got the lights the plug in the front fairing wasn't all the way in and apparently that controls the back section, so one down.
Everything sounds normal except it doesnt have the whirling in the begining when I first put the key in and turn it.
Everything sounds normal except it doesnt have the whirling in the begining when I first put the key in and turn it.
We've almost got it - I pulled my manual - there are two relays in the back - one is the Fuel cut relay, the other is the engine stop relay - check those wires FIRST since that is where you were working primarily. - The fuel relay will have a Brown, Blue/White, Blue/White, and a Brown/Black wire going into it. The Engine stop relay will have a Red/White, Blue/White, Black, and Red/White going into it.
In this order (Stop if anything doesn't check out and report back what you find)
1. - Check the FI fuse under the seat.
2. - Check for +12V at the engine stop relay with the key on on BOTH Red/White wires
3. - Key off - get ready to check for +12V at the Brown wire on the Fuel Cut relay - turn on key - should get +12 for a second or two (Prime)
4. - Check for +12 at the fuel pump (Brown wire)
5. - Check for Ground at the pump (Green wire)
6. - While cranking, have someone gently (not to dent the tank) hit the tank - it's an old "stuck fuel pump" trick I've used to get things running temporarily.
Make sure to post when you get things running again too!
In this order (Stop if anything doesn't check out and report back what you find)
1. - Check the FI fuse under the seat.
2. - Check for +12V at the engine stop relay with the key on on BOTH Red/White wires
3. - Key off - get ready to check for +12V at the Brown wire on the Fuel Cut relay - turn on key - should get +12 for a second or two (Prime)
4. - Check for +12 at the fuel pump (Brown wire)
5. - Check for Ground at the pump (Green wire)
6. - While cranking, have someone gently (not to dent the tank) hit the tank - it's an old "stuck fuel pump" trick I've used to get things running temporarily.
Make sure to post when you get things running again too!
Ok are these the ones you are talking about? All is in but the 1, but I can't find anywhere it would go, and im 99% that one was already unplugged because I havn't touched that stuff. Heres a pic and which one of these fuses are you talking about, break down the testing for me heh if you can im trying to make sense of what you said with 2. - Check for +12V at the engine stop relay with the key on on BOTH Red/White wires
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/4958/sigs2001rp7.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1438/sigs2002mq0.jpg
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/4958/sigs2001rp7.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1438/sigs2002mq0.jpg
Fuses are correct - look at the diagram on the cover and search for one that says "FI" - it should be a 20A fuse that is all by itself - I think it's inside the little clear plastic case on the side. - It should have +12 on both sides ALL THE TIME.
The box and connectors you show are the ECM ones - the Relays are located inside the tail on the right side - They can be seen on the far top right side of your first pic:

They may be hard to get to with the tail installed, but if the fuse is good, they are likely the source of your problem...
Let's see if we can get this thing going tonight =-)
The box and connectors you show are the ECM ones - the Relays are located inside the tail on the right side - They can be seen on the far top right side of your first pic:

They may be hard to get to with the tail installed, but if the fuse is good, they are likely the source of your problem...
Let's see if we can get this thing going tonight =-)
Dude you are the man for helping like this, the relay boxes are both plugged in snug, I pulled this fuse out it doesn't look like its burnt or anything? There was none that said FI but there was one under 10A for starting and it looked better than the one in this pic. http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/8842/sigs2hc1.jpg . I looked under the tail on the right side and inside fairing no plugs. Is there another plug somewhere that has to do with the fuel pump?
ok... i just read thru this whole thread and this is an easy fix, so dont worry dank you'll get thru it. but from what i'm seeing is that it is an electrical problem. couple of questions tho:
how did you figure out how to install the pc3?
try this (if you haven't yet): http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/141165.aspx
also, did you say that your bike cranked up and turned on after you put in the pc3?
another note... the o2 sensor is kinda a big thing with our bikes and even with the electrical system. what the o2 sensor does is that it transmits that signal to the brain that air (@ stoichiometric readings) is running thru the pipe. it almost needs to find some air in order to send someting back to the brain. in some cases, it could send a code to the brain saying it's not detecting any air current (thus maybe resulting in the F1 light). to test this (i know it might seem stupid), but have your friend blow into the sensor while you're trying to start it up.
have you checked your battery?
how did you install your turn signals? from the picture correct me if i'm wrong but i believe that the green wire isn't suppose to be plugged in. the green is just a relay that determines your flash rate and if you want running lites.
i believe the way to install your wiring is this on the flush mount it should have 2 wires (black & red) and stock plug has 3 (blue, blue/white, and green) and other side (orange, orange/white, green). what you should do is this: connect black to blue/white, and red to solid blue... and other side it should be black to orange/white, and red to solid orange.
this will cause you to lose your running lights and it will make your flash rate faster. if you want to keep the stock flash rate you're gonna have to buy some diodes and connect it like this:

hope that helps!!!
how did you figure out how to install the pc3?
try this (if you haven't yet): http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/141165.aspx
also, did you say that your bike cranked up and turned on after you put in the pc3?
another note... the o2 sensor is kinda a big thing with our bikes and even with the electrical system. what the o2 sensor does is that it transmits that signal to the brain that air (@ stoichiometric readings) is running thru the pipe. it almost needs to find some air in order to send someting back to the brain. in some cases, it could send a code to the brain saying it's not detecting any air current (thus maybe resulting in the F1 light). to test this (i know it might seem stupid), but have your friend blow into the sensor while you're trying to start it up.
have you checked your battery?
how did you install your turn signals? from the picture correct me if i'm wrong but i believe that the green wire isn't suppose to be plugged in. the green is just a relay that determines your flash rate and if you want running lites.
i believe the way to install your wiring is this on the flush mount it should have 2 wires (black & red) and stock plug has 3 (blue, blue/white, and green) and other side (orange, orange/white, green). what you should do is this: connect black to blue/white, and red to solid blue... and other side it should be black to orange/white, and red to solid orange.
this will cause you to lose your running lights and it will make your flash rate faster. if you want to keep the stock flash rate you're gonna have to buy some diodes and connect it like this:

hope that helps!!!


