I had a couple of scratches on the stator which drove me insane. I took off the fairing, and taped off around the stator. I used 100 grit sand paper and put some light scratches all over the stator. I then used high heat primer, 3 coats. You only have to wait 10 minutes between each coat. After the last primer coat, I waited an hour then used high heat flat black spray paint. I also gave that three coats. It came out awesome, it looks great in black. I showed several of my friends who also have bikes and they couldnt believe how good it looked. I didnt take any pictures cause I was unsure myself at first, but now I wish I did because it came out perfect, it looks flawless. I will try to get pics this weekend, but seriously now it looks like an OEM black stator cover.

 

Sweet, I'd love to see your stator cover man if yo uget the chance to start the thread!

 

forget the stator, i fixed that.......any other ideas on the fuse problem?


PS. I will try and post pics of the stator for you 99

 

Which fuse are referring to? I didn't know there was a fuse for the clock. Can you be more specific.

 

Thanks for the info. .. I had given up on the scratches on mine but I think I'll take on this project.

Free bump for your electrical issue [X(]

 

here's my best primer:
a multimeter has a adjusting ****, a display and 2 leads. The adjusting **** should be on resistance (ohms) then the display will show you the resistance between the two leads. put the leads together and it should be close to 0. put it on two ends of a good wire and it should be close to 0. open it and it should show over range.

Your battery is 12 V. If you connect something with resistance R across it (one wire to +, one to -), current is 12/R. If you connected a wire, it would get HOT since Rwire is almost 0 and hence current is very high. (12/0)
IMPORTANT CAUTION: DO NOT CONNECT THE MULTIMETER TO BATTERY WHEN IN RESISTANCE MODE. this will blow the meter.

All electronics is connected across the battery since it needs to draw power (a sane amount of current)
If one part of electronics draws too much current, its fuse will blow and isolate that part. but sometimes it draws more current than usual but not enough to blow the fuse!
If your gauges are drawing too much current but not enough to blow their fuse, (means Rguage is low i.e. 12/Rgauge is high), then not enough current remains for the starter! when you open the fuse though, it's isolated and then the starter can turn strong.

So, take the fuse out, and put the + terminal of the multimeter (on ohms) to the end NOT connected to the battery, and connect the - terminal to the battery's - terminal. And see the resistance. If this is low, (e.g. 1 ohms) 12V/1ohms=12AMPS will be taken by the gauges and the battery cant supply more for the starter/sparks.

Alternatively, if your multimeter has a 20A current mode, put it in that mode (you might have to change a lead), and put + to one end of the fuse holder and - to the other, and you'll directly know current from the display.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzjMIcER4EU

find the wiring diagram on stephygee.com

 

+ 1 for ampfp crawl through the inginition system, contantyl referencing the ground, could be that the previous owner(if there was one) removed the clock fuse due to a short circuit they caused with an aftermarket electrical item.