Yup,
My name say's it all "ROOKIE" straight up. lol But yea i've put 400miles on it like a fool right after it's been stored for the winter. I need some step by step. Change the filter first?? Do i need a torque wrench?? Work with me folks need to start somewhere...
I would like to do this tomorrow so it would be sweet if i can get some help.
Thanks!!

 

The tools: Oil Filter (OEM: 15410-MCJ-003), 12MM Washer (OEM: 94109-12000), Optional Drain Bolt (OEM: 90131-896-650), 12MM Socket or Wrench, Aluminum Foil, Drain Pan, and 3.5 Quarts of Oil.


Step 1 - Start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes. Turn the engine off. Wait 2-3 minutes for the oil to settle.

Step 2 - Place a drain pan under the crankcase drain bolt. To drain the oil, remove the oil filler cap, crankcase drain bolt, and sealing washer.

Note: Remove the bolt with an 12MM socket or Wrench.

Step 3 - Go get a drink for 5 minutes.

Step 4 - Now onto the Oil Filter. Place the aluminum foil around the filter so the oil doesn't go on your exhaust. Proceed to remove the oil filter with a filter wrench (if needed) and let the remaining oil drain out.

Step 5 - Go get a drink for 10 minutes.

Step 6 - Once the oil has stop leaking from both the drain bolt and oil filter, apply a thin coat of engine oil to the oil filter rubber.

Step 7 - Install the new oil filter and tighten it by hand or by wrench (not too tight).

Note: On the F4i you can use a longer oil filter. Having a longer oil filter may help increase the interval between oil changes. Longer oil filters you may use: Mobil M1-108, Mobil M1-110, Bosch 3300, or Bosch 3323.

Step 8 - Install the drain bolt with washer and tighten it to the specified torque: 22 lbf-ft (29 N-m, 3.0 kgf-m).

Step 9 - Fill the crankcase with a recommended motorcycle oil. Pour about 3.5 bottle has it is about 3.5 Quarts of oil (3.3 liters).

Note: Viscosity/Weight: SAE 10W-40 | API: SF or SG | I suggest Mobil 1 MX4T Full Synthetic 10W-40. On an engine with less than 2,000 miles do not use a Synthetic oil. The film strength of 100% esther synthetics is 6 times that of petroleum oils. It is so slippery the piston rings will never seat properly.

Step 10 - Start the engine and let it idle for 3-5 minutes. Make sure the malfunction indicator lamp and low oil pressure indicator go off. If the malfunction indicator remains on and the low oil pressure indicator keeps flashing, stop the engine immediately. Stop the engine and wait 2-3 minutes. Hold the motorcycle in an upright position. Check that the oil level is between the upper and lower level marks in the inspection window.

Note: If the oil is below or near the lower level mark - remove the oil filler cap and add the recommended oil until it reaches the upper level mark. (Do not overfill.) Reinstall the oil filler cap.

Step 11 - GO RIDE.

Step 12 - Check for any leaks.

copied/pasted from:

http://www.shraz.net/motorcycle/f4i/oilandfilter/

 

Read this and make an educated choice for oil and filter. I went to walmart and spent 22 bucks for everything.
http://redirectingat.com/?id=42X146&...nsumables.html

 

Man, that YAMALUBE is freakin' expensive! won't buy that crap again. lol
Also, a piece of cardboard works well to block oil from running from the filter onto the exhaust.

 

You'll want the bike to be upright when you do this. If you don't have any, purchase a good set of bike stands.

 

I just changed my oil today put full synthetic in it for the first time (my bike almost has 13,000 mi. on it). I also bought the mobile 1 mx4t full synthetic.

 

This place is great!! Lol

 

No doubt!! Thanks Flyyou damn bro you put some serious time and effort in giving the run down, i appreciate it.
Let you know how this turns out.