Got a power commander & getting ready for a tune
#1
Got a power commander & getting ready for a tune
any suggestions? im going to get a few tunes hopefully, a full race one (even though different tracks will need different sprockets and tunes, bleh) and a street riding one, smooth throttle and all that.
does anyone know if adjusting the valves after would require a new tune, its been 12k miles since they were looked at.
should i go to a shop that has a dynojet dyno so everything is all plug and play or a mechanic that has been doing it for 20 years that may not have a dynojet dyno?
any advice is appreciated, maps, pre-dyno maintenance, ball park prices, printouts i should get, anything, thanks.
edit: oh and sticker locations, i hear they add HP so i need some thoughts on where is a good place.
does anyone know if adjusting the valves after would require a new tune, its been 12k miles since they were looked at.
should i go to a shop that has a dynojet dyno so everything is all plug and play or a mechanic that has been doing it for 20 years that may not have a dynojet dyno?
any advice is appreciated, maps, pre-dyno maintenance, ball park prices, printouts i should get, anything, thanks.
edit: oh and sticker locations, i hear they add HP so i need some thoughts on where is a good place.
#2
Take it to a dyno jet certified shop. The computer will tune it.
Make sure your tires have the right amount of air and chain is in good shape. Get a before and after dyno so you can compare power and air/fuel ratio.
Don't plan on gaining a ton of power but it will make a huge difference in the way the bike reacts and how smooth it runs.
Make sure your tires have the right amount of air and chain is in good shape. Get a before and after dyno so you can compare power and air/fuel ratio.
Don't plan on gaining a ton of power but it will make a huge difference in the way the bike reacts and how smooth it runs.
#3
so i called up one place and they said i have something that shoots clean air in my exhaust and they need to block that off.. i don't recall anything like that.
to me it sounds like it would go the other way, exhaust into the intake to warm the engine faster. anyways 4 hours for the whole thing $380, i'll pass on that.
one guy said 250 but he needs the bike all day full tank of gas, and only gives 1 tune, for optimal performance, and the need for any other tune is pointless.. what do
to me it sounds like it would go the other way, exhaust into the intake to warm the engine faster. anyways 4 hours for the whole thing $380, i'll pass on that.
one guy said 250 but he needs the bike all day full tank of gas, and only gives 1 tune, for optimal performance, and the need for any other tune is pointless.. what do
#4
so i called up one place and they said i have something that shoots clean air in my exhaust and they need to block that off.. i don't recall anything like that.
to me it sounds like it would go the other way, exhaust into the intake to warm the engine faster. anyways 4 hours for the whole thing $380, i'll pass on that.
one guy said 250 but he needs the bike all day full tank of gas, and only gives 1 tune, for optimal performance, and the need for any other tune is pointless.. what do
to me it sounds like it would go the other way, exhaust into the intake to warm the engine faster. anyways 4 hours for the whole thing $380, i'll pass on that.
one guy said 250 but he needs the bike all day full tank of gas, and only gives 1 tune, for optimal performance, and the need for any other tune is pointless.. what do
#5
You need to remove this because it gives false air fuel mixture readings. Plus with it removes it reduces the amount of decel pop you hear with a full system and a tune. Make sure u also are running whatever grade of gas u will be normally running as we'll so the tune is more accurate. A guy an hour away from me only charged 150. That was a discounted rate tho.
#6
#7
The thing is that you will not get like 10-20 more horse powers but after i got my f4i mapped it defenetly felt like it. I got more low/mid range power (where you really need/use it) but i can't speak for the top end as i rarely/never use it.
It felt like a completely different bike after the custom map compared to the standard map that came with the power commander.
I can defenetly recommend it even though it is rather expensive
It felt like a completely different bike after the custom map compared to the standard map that came with the power commander.
I can defenetly recommend it even though it is rather expensive
#8
yeah i got the tune done, definitely notice the difference the chart alone speaks for itself.
i would recommend, pair valve removal or pinching the hose since i don't have any sensor in the exhaust to adjust air fuel, it would make the bike smell nicer.
if you have stock pipes, otherwise disable or fuel will burn. making poping sounds.
but im probably wrong on that, i dont see a catalytic converter anywhere on my 01 pipes, regardless to pinch the lines would be a good first option.
any airbox mods as well i would do, i didn't remove the warm air blowing into the airbox but i would of liked to, colder air denser air.
chain condition and tire pressure i used stock pressure for street tires, ask the dyno guy whats best, a lower rear pressure is probably good.
i would also say get SAE print outs the difference may be small but it is based on a set temperature, barometric pressure, and stuff,
STD may be a bit higher if its colder or a bit lower if its hotter. luckly i did mine at about SAE temps,
i dunno about the pressure, so i rocked out 103.8 STD peak, but that doesnt matter the difference was in the fuel delivery.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-...sheets-143273/
there is the link to my sheets, at 11krpm i have 5 more hp than i did previously, i wish i had better mid range though 7-12k really
maybe a bit leaner for around town driving rpms 6k and below, but not really i wanted a full out track tune.
i would recommend, pair valve removal or pinching the hose since i don't have any sensor in the exhaust to adjust air fuel, it would make the bike smell nicer.
if you have stock pipes, otherwise disable or fuel will burn. making poping sounds.
but im probably wrong on that, i dont see a catalytic converter anywhere on my 01 pipes, regardless to pinch the lines would be a good first option.
any airbox mods as well i would do, i didn't remove the warm air blowing into the airbox but i would of liked to, colder air denser air.
chain condition and tire pressure i used stock pressure for street tires, ask the dyno guy whats best, a lower rear pressure is probably good.
i would also say get SAE print outs the difference may be small but it is based on a set temperature, barometric pressure, and stuff,
STD may be a bit higher if its colder or a bit lower if its hotter. luckly i did mine at about SAE temps,
i dunno about the pressure, so i rocked out 103.8 STD peak, but that doesnt matter the difference was in the fuel delivery.
https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-...sheets-143273/
there is the link to my sheets, at 11krpm i have 5 more hp than i did previously, i wish i had better mid range though 7-12k really
maybe a bit leaner for around town driving rpms 6k and below, but not really i wanted a full out track tune.
Last edited by RudyGT; 11-27-2012 at 06:03 AM. Reason: added stuff
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