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f4i shock replacement

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Old 12-17-2013, 01:48 PM
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Default f4i shock replacement

well this isnt going to be complete in this one post considering im going to have to wait for parts. but im throwing this out there in case anyone has advice.
so first off. it was pretty cheap to raise the rear end since i had the pieces.

2 jacks stands sitting on top 2x6x 12''s on top of car ramps.
with a crowbar inbetween. used the rear wheel stand to lift it up and set it down.

just grabbing right under the rear passenger rearsets. and this brings the wheel like half an inch off the ground.

i took the rear fairing off because it looks like it would be in the way. even though i hate removing it since it seems it wasn't meant to be done.
also notice the 2x4 propping up the tank. im hoping its enough room to get tools in there.
it is putting a little weight on the battery tray ecu. but the tank is pretty much empty so its not much at all

which brings me here... hit it with liquid wrench. im outta sea foam. at this point im letting it set. its 16mm i think on this side 14mm on the other side..
so far i can get a socket in there but may need to slide a tube on the handle to get more leverage..
gonna suck to fit my torque wrench in there. anyways at this point its soaking and im going to order replacement bolts/nuts since they are rusted to hell.
i can only hope the replacement fits the new shock. if anyone has done this before and can offer a better way of doing this please, please post
 

Last edited by RudyGT; 12-17-2013 at 01:56 PM.
  #2  
Old 12-17-2013, 03:57 PM
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removed the chain guard and heel guard and its 17 mil for both of these nuts on the shock not 16. this one came off easy.

had to use my home made breaker bar on this one.. its a limb cutter.. you know you pull the rope and it snips tiny branches. it broke cause it was cheap
and it really helped remove my front sprocket bolt. 6 feet of leverage ftw.
so it fit in there with the 2x4. im leaving the shock in for a few days, i have ordered replacement bolts.
spent some time at the shop, evidently the new honda 250's frame isn't rigid enough and flexes at high speeds.. i first thought geometry but i guess its tubular frame cant stand the wind
 
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Old 12-17-2013, 07:32 PM
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Hey bud you can just soak those bolts in vinegar a while and will remove the rust in no time. Just a heads up if the replacements give you issues.
 
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:20 PM
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Amazing how corroded the top of the shock is compared to the rest of the bike or even the bottem of the same shock. I highly approve of your stand idea
 
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Old 12-20-2013, 01:38 PM
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ROUND 2!!
i thought i took more pictures but i sure didn't.
btw when you order replacement nuts get these. NUT, U (10MM) Part Number: 90304-GE8-003. they are locking nuts and the parts tells you to get a flange nut.
that flange nut will be the only one of its type on your whole rear shock and dog bone.
anyways, removed the nuts and shimmed the rear wheel a bit to make it easier to pull the shock out

it was about a half inch off the ground.
to put the new shock in. it was a bit larger, i removed that wood and if needed i could of released air pressure but it was enough just to remove the shim

out with the old

in with the new to me

i gotta say you need to raise the tank up more than just that 2x4 i had stuck in there. so i folded up some cardboard since i couldnt think of anything else.
if you remove the tank you can probably take the shock up through the top.
but i fed it in the big open space you see there in the bottom right.
put the reseviour first, put it over the cables that were zip tied to the subframe, which you can undo without cutting.
then spun the shock around and laid it in place.
fairly simple and easy to do.
hardest part was deciding how to raise the rear end. i've heard about putting a jack between the tire and subframe,
making a stand out of wood or pipe from home depot and ratchet strapping it up. this worked out great though.
 

Last edited by RudyGT; 12-20-2013 at 01:42 PM.
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