Dropped my bike this morning (!!!!!!)
So I got the new head gasket, cct gasket and few o-rings from honda in mail today. I have 3 finals on Monday, so when I took a break from studying, I went down to the garage and decided to clean the pistons and get rid of all the carbon that was on them. I've used the Brakleen spray, gasket scraper, and a rag. They turned out pretty good. What do you guys say? I'm going to work on the bike on Tuesday, after I'm done with all my finals. Any further advices from the pros?
Hope y'all had a great weekend!
Hope y'all had a great weekend!
Last edited by mbison83; Dec 6, 2010 at 12:24 AM.
Update: I've been trying to put it all together today. Got the gasket and the head bolted down, cleaned the head bolts with a wire brush and lubed them up with engine assembly lube before putting them in and torquing them. I checked the timing with the use of the manual (pic 1 and 2). Everything seemed right until I've installed the CCT. It seemed that after installing the CCT the timing mark in the crankcase moved a bit to the left (see last pic) and the chain would make contact with the guide by the camshaft sprockets (4th pic). With the CCT in place, there was a lot of resistance when cranking the engine. After removing the CCT there was less resistance but occasional "pop" would sound as I was cranking the engine, and I'm not sure what that was. However, I was able to get the timing in the crankcase where it should be.
When checking the valve clearance No.1 and No.3, the left lobe of both would be within the limits, while I was not able to fit the 0.008in feeler gauge plate under the right lobes. That's all I was able to do, and I decided to call it a day. I am asking you guys or help as I'm stuck here. I'm not sure what to do. Please help!
When checking the valve clearance No.1 and No.3, the left lobe of both would be within the limits, while I was not able to fit the 0.008in feeler gauge plate under the right lobes. That's all I was able to do, and I decided to call it a day. I am asking you guys or help as I'm stuck here. I'm not sure what to do. Please help!
Last edited by mbison83; Dec 7, 2010 at 07:52 PM.
OK the cam or Crank well move when you put the CCTL in place as it is tightening the chain to one side.
You well want to realign the marks to make sure the are close and not off on the cam's by a tooth if so the you well want to realign them so that they match up.
Remember CCTL = Cam Chain Tension Lifter.
Also If your trying to turn the motor over with a Dry cam chain there is going to be allot of resistance. Pore a little oil on every thing to help this as the motor does it as it runs.
setting valve lash it not so easy I don't remember what I said the clearance was but there is a range and if it is with in that range your fine.
Remember there has to be a slight bit of resistance when you slide the feeler gauge in place if there is to much then it is to tight if there is not enough then it is to loose.
so on the intake side if you can get a 0.007 in there your good
on the exhaust side if you can get a 0.013 in there your to loose.
IN:0.20+/-0.03mm(AKA Between 0.17 - 0.23)(0.008+/-0.001 in || 0.007 - 0.009)
EX:0.28+/-0.03mm(AKA Between 0.25 - 0.31)(0.011+/-0.001 in || 0.008 - 0.012)
As I said Before you may have to move the spacers around under the caps.
You well want to realign the marks to make sure the are close and not off on the cam's by a tooth if so the you well want to realign them so that they match up.
Remember CCTL = Cam Chain Tension Lifter.
Also If your trying to turn the motor over with a Dry cam chain there is going to be allot of resistance. Pore a little oil on every thing to help this as the motor does it as it runs.
setting valve lash it not so easy I don't remember what I said the clearance was but there is a range and if it is with in that range your fine.
Remember there has to be a slight bit of resistance when you slide the feeler gauge in place if there is to much then it is to tight if there is not enough then it is to loose.
so on the intake side if you can get a 0.007 in there your good
on the exhaust side if you can get a 0.013 in there your to loose.
IN:0.20+/-0.03mm(AKA Between 0.17 - 0.23)(0.008+/-0.001 in || 0.007 - 0.009)
EX:0.28+/-0.03mm(AKA Between 0.25 - 0.31)(0.011+/-0.001 in || 0.008 - 0.012)
As I said Before you may have to move the spacers around under the caps.
Last edited by joeroberts; Dec 8, 2010 at 11:13 PM.
OK the cam or Crank well move when you put the CCTL in place as it is tightening the chain to one side.
You well want to realign the marks to make sure the are close and not off on the cam's by a tooth if so the you well want to realign them so that they match up.
Remember CCTL = Cam Chain Tension Lifter.
Also If your trying to turn the motor over with a Dry cam chain there is going to be allot of resistance. Pore a little oil on every thing to help this as the motor does it as it runs.
You well want to realign the marks to make sure the are close and not off on the cam's by a tooth if so the you well want to realign them so that they match up.
Remember CCTL = Cam Chain Tension Lifter.
Also If your trying to turn the motor over with a Dry cam chain there is going to be allot of resistance. Pore a little oil on every thing to help this as the motor does it as it runs.
setting valve lash it not so easy I don't remember what I said the clearance was but there is a range and if it is with in that range your fine.
Remember there has to be a slight bit of resistance when you slide the feeler gauge in place if there is to much then it is to tight if there is not enough then it is to loose.
so on the intake side if you can get a 0.007 in there your good
on the exhaust side if you can get a 0.013 in there your to loose.
IN:0.20+/-0.03mm(AKA Between 0.17 - 0.23)(0.008+/-0.001 in || 0.007 - 0.009)
EX:0.28+/-0.03mm(AKA Between 0.25 - 0.31)(0.011+/-0.001 in || 0.008 - 0.012)
As I said Before you may have to move the spacers around under the caps.
Remember there has to be a slight bit of resistance when you slide the feeler gauge in place if there is to much then it is to tight if there is not enough then it is to loose.
so on the intake side if you can get a 0.007 in there your good
on the exhaust side if you can get a 0.013 in there your to loose.
IN:0.20+/-0.03mm(AKA Between 0.17 - 0.23)(0.008+/-0.001 in || 0.007 - 0.009)
EX:0.28+/-0.03mm(AKA Between 0.25 - 0.31)(0.011+/-0.001 in || 0.008 - 0.012)
As I said Before you may have to move the spacers around under the caps.
Should the CCT be installed when I do this then? B/c the manual says to put a stopper tool in it (which is equivalent to its removal and I dont have the stopper tool so I just remove it). When I crank the engine without the CCT in place the chain slips and I lose the timing. Before I've bolted it down I've used some lucas engine assembly lube.
The spacers you mean the shims, right? So every one of them is of a different size?
It is difficult to set the timing with out the stopper tool But it can be done get a friend to help you because you need to keep the chain tight so that it don't slip on you as you put the CCTL in place after you get the marks set and remember to have the slack in the chain to the side that the CCTL goes on.
hmm. im not looking to buy a new cct. and definitely not stock. ive heard a lot of bad things about them.


