Road to school this morning at like 8am. I completely had a newb moment and I parked and kicked down the kickstand...but i completely missed the kickstand and i went to lean the bike over on the kickstand...and i kept on leaning over til the bike was on the side....sooo embarrassing.

secondly. I'm not really a techy person...but I made some adjustments to my clutc lever to fix the slack but I had to take up the slack from the clutch cover. I also decided to tighten my chain. this was the first time I've tightened my chain before so I was kinda nervous of mucking something up. I think I might of lost count of how many turns I turned the adjusted for the chain slack....I looked at the little indent on the swingarm as reference....just wondering how exact does it have to be?? while looking at it..the difference looks negligible to the naked eye... and if its not exact..how will it ride? just wanna make sure everything is straight...
Anyone know any tricks? or should I just start all the way from scratch and do it over again.

 

Newb moments suck...lol..
I hopped off my KLR last summer (while bichin' at a coworker) only to turn around and watch it fall. I let it down easy, but dam....

On the chain thing, if the wheel isn't straight it can cause abnormal tire wear and sometimes wobbles.
You can use the indicators on the swingarm, but you can also measure from the axle to the pivot bolts on your swingarm to be sure it's aligned.

 

You can use the hash marks on the chain adjusters primarily for reference, but they're hard to see and not very accurate. Counting the number of turns is effective and will get you well within the ballpark.
The way I go about aligning the chain is, once proper slack is achieved with the left adjuster, spin the rear wheel with one hand and manipulate the right adjuster until the chain rides centered along the rear sprocket.
One thing to take note, is that when you ultimately torque the axle bolt down, it's going to effect slack and alignment once again, depending on how you tighten it (how you apply rotational pressure on the axle), so you wil have to compensate for that change in the primary adjustment... if that makes any sense. So say, once you torque the axle, the chain rides off center on the sprocket, you will want to adjust it farther the opposite way, prior to tightening the axle bolt.
This is just the way I do it, and perhaps I'm over-thinking it, but it yields good results, imo.