CBR BOGGING DOWN WONT GET PASSED 45mph
Bike won't run and is giving you MAP sensor codes which are what tell the computer what the engine is doing....seems pretty clear you need to check the wiring to the MAP, the MAP itself, and all the vaccum hoses under the tank and around the throttle bodies.
Okay. Tonight I'm taking the fairing back off and popping of the tank to check all the connections and hoses. Basically all I'm looking for is disconnected hoses or wiring. Or even pinched hoses. I'll update afterwards tonight if I find anything or if nothing is disconnected. I honestly hope that it's simply a pinched or disconnect wire/hose. Then a adjustment be made and I'm back on the road sooner than later.
Okay, broke it down and went back over all the places I had previously done work to. The small .25-.375 vacuum hose out the back of the air box was pinched. I relieved the pinch ran it in a better location to avoid that from happening. The bike took a good 3-4 try's to get it to start. But once it started it seemed like it was trying to catch up from missing whatever that hose provided. Once the bike warmed up, the idle rpms were correct! However I took the bike for A ride and it felt different. Is it because the bike is having to catch its breath basically? Held its breath for so long that at first it cAnt preform top notch but will come back?
Basically the ride was weird at first, a little delay on the throttle but after the temperature reached about 175 the throttle response seemed to be normal. The engine doesn't sound exactly the same and there isn't as much pull when you get on it in the lower gears. Any ideas on these updated issues? I am taking the bike for a ride tomorrow and I will use a jump wire to see if any different or if any of the previous codes appear (or were "fixed"). Thank you for your assistance thus far!
Basically the ride was weird at first, a little delay on the throttle but after the temperature reached about 175 the throttle response seemed to be normal. The engine doesn't sound exactly the same and there isn't as much pull when you get on it in the lower gears. Any ideas on these updated issues? I am taking the bike for a ride tomorrow and I will use a jump wire to see if any different or if any of the previous codes appear (or were "fixed"). Thank you for your assistance thus far!
Update: the bike seems to be riding better since I unpinched the air box vacuum hose. I am almost certain that the pinched hose was the cause of the poor idle, hard to start, and frequent stalling that had happened. But even though the bike is running better, it doesn't feel as strong as it did a couple weeks ago. I feel like it's still missing that torque/grunt power that it had in the lower gear when really getting on it.
The bike seemed to run even better than the night before after fixing the hose issue, like it just need to catch back up (like I mentioned before). But still the torque/power I mentioned I want back. I used a jump wire to do the F1 service lamp test again to see if any codes changed or were removed. All four codes still remain. Code 01/code 02/ code 09/ code 11... code 11 being the speed sensor which I mentions is on order and will replace asap.
Could a faulty map sensor/map sensor wiring/map sensor hose/IAT sensor/IAT wiring cause the problem I'm still describing? Is it possible that the pinched hose (was pinched for 1 week, about 5days of riding each about 1hour-1 1/2 hours each day.) caused damage to another part of the bike?
The bike seemed to run even better than the night before after fixing the hose issue, like it just need to catch back up (like I mentioned before). But still the torque/power I mentioned I want back. I used a jump wire to do the F1 service lamp test again to see if any codes changed or were removed. All four codes still remain. Code 01/code 02/ code 09/ code 11... code 11 being the speed sensor which I mentions is on order and will replace asap.
Could a faulty map sensor/map sensor wiring/map sensor hose/IAT sensor/IAT wiring cause the problem I'm still describing? Is it possible that the pinched hose (was pinched for 1 week, about 5days of riding each about 1hour-1 1/2 hours each day.) caused damage to another part of the bike?
I did not, I didn't realize you had to manually reset the codes to show new ones after work had been done. I'll do that during my lunch break. I have the, how to, in my manual. I'll update once I have done that.
Okay, I followed my manual and did exactly what it says to do. For reference I shall post what the manual says to do:
1. Turn the engine stop switch to "run" and the ignition switch to "off".
2. Short the service check connector of the PGM-FI system using a jump wire.
3. Turn the ignition switch to "on"
4. Remove the jump wire from the service check connector
5. The MIL lights about 5 seconds. While the indicator lights, short the service check connector again with the jump wire. Self diagnosis memory data is erased if the MIL turns off and then starts blinking.
- the service check connector must be jumped while the indicator lights. If not the MIL will not start blinking.
- note that the self diagnosis data cannot be erased if you turn off the ignition switch before the MIL starts blinking.
If the MIL blinks 20 times, the data has not been erased, so try again.
I get all the way to step 5, the light is blinking. But the last little side note trips me up every time. The light just keeps blinking, well past 20. But every time I do it I'm within the 5 seconds it says and every time is just keeps blinking. Is that correct? Is is erased? Is it suppose to continuously blink until you turn it off, then it will light up if any other codes show up? If it was not erased would it blink 20 times (like two long blinks, or 20 blinks then a pause.. then 20 blinks?)
I have not tried to get the "new" codes yet, because I wanted to be sure I erased the old one properly. Any ideas or assistance is appreciated.
1. Turn the engine stop switch to "run" and the ignition switch to "off".
2. Short the service check connector of the PGM-FI system using a jump wire.
3. Turn the ignition switch to "on"
4. Remove the jump wire from the service check connector
5. The MIL lights about 5 seconds. While the indicator lights, short the service check connector again with the jump wire. Self diagnosis memory data is erased if the MIL turns off and then starts blinking.
- the service check connector must be jumped while the indicator lights. If not the MIL will not start blinking.
- note that the self diagnosis data cannot be erased if you turn off the ignition switch before the MIL starts blinking.
If the MIL blinks 20 times, the data has not been erased, so try again.
I get all the way to step 5, the light is blinking. But the last little side note trips me up every time. The light just keeps blinking, well past 20. But every time I do it I'm within the 5 seconds it says and every time is just keeps blinking. Is that correct? Is is erased? Is it suppose to continuously blink until you turn it off, then it will light up if any other codes show up? If it was not erased would it blink 20 times (like two long blinks, or 20 blinks then a pause.. then 20 blinks?)
I have not tried to get the "new" codes yet, because I wanted to be sure I erased the old one properly. Any ideas or assistance is appreciated.
It was those hose being pinched. And apparently I did clear the codes. I hooked the jump wire up and read the new codes. Only code 11 appeared, which is faulty speed sensor. Which I knew would remain. So we should be good I guess. I have a quick question, the air filter looks in good condition there was a dead bug in it and the previous owner laid the bike down and part of the filter smells of gas. However the filter seems to work fine but should I replace it, because of the gas?
The problem is back. Yesterday I was riding home and felt a loss in throttle response. I could not increase speed, and could barely maintain a speed. I pulled to the side of the road, holding the clutch in (bike in first gear) it puttered then died. Try again and again, wouldn't even engage first without dying. Then I waited about 2-5 minutes (while I called my wife about being stuck on the road) I went to start it up and it seemed to be idling normal. I went for it, got on the road and the bike was driving like it was! It had all the power I thought was missing and accelerated perfect no hesitation. Then five minutess down the road it started puttering slightly. I was able to get home before it got serious again. The bike is now at home, I did not take it to work. I decided to wait until the speed sensor came in to take the bike apart again. I did not see if any new codes appeared but as of right now.. I have no idea as to what the problem is. Could it be trash or clogged gas/air lines? Anyway, that's my update for now, any and all information will be greatly helpful and appreciated.


