Can I remove the CCT without my new one yet?
#1
Can I remove the CCT without my new one yet?
The situation I'm in is I have a manual APE CCT coming in the mail but want to continue working on the valve check. Can I remove the auto CCT and continue with the work or do I need to have my replacement with me now? Can I remove it without winding it back up? Do I just plug the hole so nothing gets in while I wait for the manual CCT?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
#3
So does that mean I need to only loosen the adjuster and not fully remove it? And do I remove the auto and replace with the manual, then continue with the check?
#4
Just wait. It's not worth it unless you absolutely make sure it's still in correct time after you're done and are comfortable with re-timing it IF it were to skip a tooth.
#7
the service manual actually specifies that you turn the tensioner INWARDS and then lock it when doing a valve check, to provide extra chain tension and ensure the timing marks aren't a bit off so you are guaranteed to be adjusting @ base circle.
of course if you look at how large of a base circle area you work with, you'd realize this is unnecessary.. there's no way a bit of chain slack would hurt
just fyi even with no tensioner in place, it's pretty hard to 'jump a tooth' (notice the APE install instructions or FSM don't mention moving to TDC before removing the tensioner)
of course if you look at how large of a base circle area you work with, you'd realize this is unnecessary.. there's no way a bit of chain slack would hurt
just fyi even with no tensioner in place, it's pretty hard to 'jump a tooth' (notice the APE install instructions or FSM don't mention moving to TDC before removing the tensioner)
#8
the service manual actually specifies that you turn the tensioner INWARDS and then lock it when doing a valve check, to provide extra chain tension and ensure the timing marks aren't a bit off so you are guaranteed to be adjusting @ base circle.
of course if you look at how large of a base circle area you work with, you'd realize this is unnecessary.. there's no way a bit of chain slack would hurt
just fyi even with no tensioner in place, it's pretty hard to 'jump a tooth' (notice the APE install instructions or FSM don't mention moving to TDC before removing the tensioner)
of course if you look at how large of a base circle area you work with, you'd realize this is unnecessary.. there's no way a bit of chain slack would hurt
just fyi even with no tensioner in place, it's pretty hard to 'jump a tooth' (notice the APE install instructions or FSM don't mention moving to TDC before removing the tensioner)
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