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Can I remove the CCT without my new one yet?

  #1  
Old 08-21-2016, 02:35 PM
zDirtyDeedz's Avatar
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Default Can I remove the CCT without my new one yet?

The situation I'm in is I have a manual APE CCT coming in the mail but want to continue working on the valve check. Can I remove the auto CCT and continue with the work or do I need to have my replacement with me now? Can I remove it without winding it back up? Do I just plug the hole so nothing gets in while I wait for the manual CCT?

Thanks in advance
 
  #2  
Old 08-21-2016, 02:47 PM
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I would wait as there's no need to take the chance for the chain to jump a tooth if you're going to be spinning it by hand
 
  #3  
Old 08-21-2016, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Conrice View Post
I would wait as there's no need to take the chance for the chain to jump a tooth if you're going to be spinning it by hand
So does that mean I need to only loosen the adjuster and not fully remove it? And do I remove the auto and replace with the manual, then continue with the check?
 
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Old 08-21-2016, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by zDirtyDeedz View Post
So does that mean I need to only loosen the adjuster and not fully remove it? And do I remove the auto and replace with the manual, then continue with the check?
To take it out, just undo the two bolts holding on the base. But wait to do the rest of the check until you have the APE. If you start spinning the engine without any CCT and it happens to jump a tooth on the crank, you'll (best case scenario) screw up how the engine runs or (worst case) bend valves and drop them...

Just wait. It's not worth it unless you absolutely make sure it's still in correct time after you're done and are comfortable with re-timing it IF it were to skip a tooth.
 
  #5  
Old 08-21-2016, 04:26 PM
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I figured you'd want to leave it in for a little bit of tension. Thanks for the quick help
 
  #6  
Old 08-22-2016, 05:43 PM
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You don't mess with the tensioner when doing valve clearances. Leave it there until the new one comes in.
 
  #7  
Old 08-22-2016, 07:55 PM
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the service manual actually specifies that you turn the tensioner INWARDS and then lock it when doing a valve check, to provide extra chain tension and ensure the timing marks aren't a bit off so you are guaranteed to be adjusting @ base circle.

of course if you look at how large of a base circle area you work with, you'd realize this is unnecessary.. there's no way a bit of chain slack would hurt

just fyi even with no tensioner in place, it's pretty hard to 'jump a tooth' (notice the APE install instructions or FSM don't mention moving to TDC before removing the tensioner)
 
  #8  
Old 08-24-2016, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rfesu View Post
the service manual actually specifies that you turn the tensioner INWARDS and then lock it when doing a valve check, to provide extra chain tension and ensure the timing marks aren't a bit off so you are guaranteed to be adjusting @ base circle.

of course if you look at how large of a base circle area you work with, you'd realize this is unnecessary.. there's no way a bit of chain slack would hurt

just fyi even with no tensioner in place, it's pretty hard to 'jump a tooth' (notice the APE install instructions or FSM don't mention moving to TDC before removing the tensioner)
Interesting, my Clymers didn't mention the extra tension on the cam chain. I'm still yet to receive my APE so I haven't seen the instructions yet, but I'll just keep it at TDC since I'm already doing the valves. Thanks!
 

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