Can I remove the CCT without my new one yet?
The situation I'm in is I have a manual APE CCT coming in the mail but want to continue working on the valve check. Can I remove the auto CCT and continue with the work or do I need to have my replacement with me now? Can I remove it without winding it back up? Do I just plug the hole so nothing gets in while I wait for the manual CCT?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
So does that mean I need to only loosen the adjuster and not fully remove it? And do I remove the auto and replace with the manual, then continue with the check?
Just wait. It's not worth it unless you absolutely make sure it's still in correct time after you're done and are comfortable with re-timing it IF it were to skip a tooth.
the service manual actually specifies that you turn the tensioner INWARDS and then lock it when doing a valve check, to provide extra chain tension and ensure the timing marks aren't a bit off so you are guaranteed to be adjusting @ base circle.
of course if you look at how large of a base circle area you work with, you'd realize this is unnecessary.. there's no way a bit of chain slack would hurt
just fyi even with no tensioner in place, it's pretty hard to 'jump a tooth' (notice the APE install instructions or FSM don't mention moving to TDC before removing the tensioner)
of course if you look at how large of a base circle area you work with, you'd realize this is unnecessary.. there's no way a bit of chain slack would hurt
just fyi even with no tensioner in place, it's pretty hard to 'jump a tooth' (notice the APE install instructions or FSM don't mention moving to TDC before removing the tensioner)
the service manual actually specifies that you turn the tensioner INWARDS and then lock it when doing a valve check, to provide extra chain tension and ensure the timing marks aren't a bit off so you are guaranteed to be adjusting @ base circle.
of course if you look at how large of a base circle area you work with, you'd realize this is unnecessary.. there's no way a bit of chain slack would hurt
just fyi even with no tensioner in place, it's pretty hard to 'jump a tooth' (notice the APE install instructions or FSM don't mention moving to TDC before removing the tensioner)
of course if you look at how large of a base circle area you work with, you'd realize this is unnecessary.. there's no way a bit of chain slack would hurt
just fyi even with no tensioner in place, it's pretty hard to 'jump a tooth' (notice the APE install instructions or FSM don't mention moving to TDC before removing the tensioner)
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