So I'm moving from the .org forum to this forum, as .org really hasn't had anyone out to help or with members who are knowledgeable enough to help. To start off, I've really liked this forum, have used it many times in the past. I am somewhat experienced with mechanics, how things work, how engines work, how to perform my own maintenance, etc. So I'm not a total n00b, but bikes aren't my specialty.

Here's the issue;

So, as usual the OEM Auto CCT started rattling on my F4i around 5K RPM. I ordered an OEM replacement because I heard Honda had manufactured an updated piece to replace the original CCT. I did some quick safety searching before tearing my bike down to the engine.

Took the gas tank off, disconnected the fuel line from the fuel rail (bent fuel line detent in process) and removed throttle bodies, didn't mess with anything other than vacuum hoses.

I put it back together and got an FI light, so I found the missing vacuum line for the MAP sensor and hooked it back up, started up just fine, sounded great, took it for a spin.... not so great. The power it had prior to the CCT install was amazing, it was hard not to do 70 or 80 on the highway. Now, if I gun it, I can barely get past 80 mph. Sounds like **** at high RPM's. All power is gone at high RPM's, there is just no response whatsoever. So, I figured the fuel line must not be lined up with the inlet on the fuel rail, so I lined it back up after marking it with a pen and bending the fuel detent back to its original position. The fuel pump primed and sounded fine, didn't sound like too much pressure was built up (prior to the proper alignment I could hear the fuel pump struggling). Took it for another spin and the same problem. No power at all. At WOT it would probably take a good 500 or 600 yards to increase 10mph at higher RPM's and struggled to get to 10K.

My bike has a Power Commander III as well, I never disconnected the battery, and don't believe this would be thrown outta whack.

I later talked to my dad and he confirmed what I was thinking that perhaps the chain had skipped a tooth. So, I took it to a cycle mechanic around me who said it sounded like I skipped a tooth after I took the old CCT off and put the new CCT on, without keeping tension on the cam chain. So he took it apart and sure enough the exhaust cam was off by one tooth. Luckily all my valves had proper clearance. So he timed it for me, checked all my valves, nothing needed adjusting. Put my fairings and tank bank together and it ran like silk, for a day.

One day of riding and at the end of the day, on my way home the bike started giving me troubles again. I was riding at about 45 mph and stopped at a light only to notice that my RPM's were lugging below 1000 and it sounded like the bike was struggling to keep idling. So I figured it must be a temporary issue, etc. I kept riding and the bike died on me at the next light, so I started it up and took off and noticed that my bike once again totally flatlined at top end. Around 6000 the bike just flatlines and has no power whatsoever, just like before. So, I took my bike back to the guy at CC Cycles and he told me its probably not out of time and figured it could be my Power Commander III. Well, I ran a zero map, a stock map, and a Yoshi map, all with the same results. The next step would be removing my PC3. However I am starting to doubt it would be the power commander. So far I have a couple options, the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator). My fuel pump (though it primes just fine) and my stator. Also, my mechanic said when he looked in the cylinders he could see signs of pre-ignition and suggested a higher octane fuel.

Went home after work last night and tested my FPR. Took off the vacuum line and primed the fuel pump and the FPR did not leak and showed no signs of leaking. Also found that my left side intake was not properly hooked up to my ram air jet, but after getting it connected again, the bike didn't run any differently. Also, last night riding around it began viciously dying everytime I would stop, barely able to keep the bike running. After returning home it was idling just fine and didn't die. I've been thinking about the rectifier or regulator, but my battery holds charge. Could it be the stator? Plugs going bad? My mechanic told me the iridium plugs fired just fine. I still haven't removed my power commander. I read somewhere about a guy having similar issues but people were suggesting that perhaps he had negative pressure built up in the gas tank due to a bent breather line from the fuel tank. This morning I checked my tank, but didn't hear too much "vent hissing" but did notice that there wasn't a ton of fuel left. I'll ride it when I get home to check if the venting made a difference. If that doesn't help, I'll move on to checking the power commander. No matter what map I put on the PC, it still runs like crap.

 

Last night I got home again, tried to put new firmware on the PCIII and it just popped and died. No more power from the PCIII. Bike wouldn't start, etc. So I removed my PCIII and my ignition module. Bike started up but is still running crappy. Just like before, no power at WOT or high end and sluggish low end. Somehow I'm thinking the plugs are fouled, it is obvioulsy having preignition issues. Filled it up with 92 octane last night, made no difference. However the bike didn't try to die on me this time after stopping. Any suggestions? I have no idea what it could be. I'm taking it back to my mechanic sometime this week to have him take it back apart and check it out. If he can't give me any answers I'll have to take it to another bike shop. I'm stumped, my dad is stumped, my brother is stumped. No one seems to be able to give me any information on two separate forums. WTF

 

Sounds like you should get a second opinion from another bike guy...

I'd say since its only been happening since you've played with the valvetrain, and youre still having the same issue, that it's still in the valvetrain.

Did you disconnect the battery after it was retimed to the computer can relearn everything? When your timing was off the computer would have tried to compensate. Also when you tested your FPR did you test the output pressure? are you sure your bike isn't starving?

 

The battery was disconnected when I removed my PC. The thing is, it ran great for a few hours the day I rode it to work. When I tested my FPR, I removed the vacuum line, primed my fuel pump, and didn't see any leaking.

 

So I recently purchased a new FPR, put all new iridium NGK plugs in it, and check the timing. The hash marks lined up, but, I didn't get it to "TDC" because I was not willing to do more work. I put it all back together and it still has no power at WOT. I just got my PCIII back from Dynojet and had it mapped and updated. Still running like ****. I don't understand it. Any ideas? Is it a bad thing when a poster actually gives people information? It seems that people who have no information at all, who can't even theorize what's wrong, can't spell, or communicate, get waves of information and help. But people with actual problems and are trying to troubleshoot, get left behind.

 

i'd love to help but working and then not working i usually file under electronics, i have no idea except hook the power commander to a laptop or computer whatever nearby.
turn the key on and read the placement of the throttle in the PC3 software, turn the throttle all the way, and it should read 100%.
then i would remove the power commander, and if it doesnt work, i would either take it to the shop or tripple check the valves, compression test, leakdown test, before opening it up again.

 

My issue was this.

I had similar issue and the diaphragm was bad in mine. Bike ran semi okay but lacked power. The FPR on this bike uses vacuum from the reg and goes directly to #1 and #2. (main feed is #2) The main line is 2 it tees off to number one cyl. I changed mine and bam, fixed!

Maybe try this first..? You could use a temp therm and check the runners and see if there is any difference in temps. That is where I checked first to determine where I wanted to start.

Also, since it is hard to see every line when going back together, check the MAP sensor. Go step by step as it should run the same as when you took it apart so it seems that it lays in what you have done while putting it back together.

 

You're talking about the diaphram inside the FPR correct? Because I've already replaced my FPR and it made no difference.

 

what do you mean here???? your intake exhaust and TDC all have to line up to have proper timing... if your not at TDC when your marks on the cam line up you are out of time. it HAS to be adjusted.
i would open it back up and verify...

 

Did you ever get this issue figured out?
If it counts for anything, it has been my experience that poor idling and struggling for power at higher rpm, is usually related to carbon build up in the throttle body. Even an extremely thin layer of carbon can cause all sorts of annoying issues like these. Maybe it just needs a thorough cleaning?