I know when I got the bike back the first time it was idling low at warm up and I believe it was because the mechanic set it low. I just got it back today and he set it to 1300 RPM, idles fine, but still no power like before. Really beginning to get to me now. So I had a PM from a member suggesting the 5T from the MAP and the 3T from the FPR to check for blockage, which I will do on my next day off or after work. It's hard, 1 day off a week with a fiance and new born baby haha. I'll keep trying, I just want her back to her former glory. There is just no response with throttle, it slowly creeps up like an everyday sedan would if you hit the gas. I'm not giving it WOT at 3K rpms or anything, its like WOT at 4.5K - 5K and it just pulls so slowly.

 

sounds like it's time to do a compression test. after re-reading your initial post, i noticed you said the valve clearance was checked after the cam incident, but you didn't mention if the valves were checked for leaks. The lack of power you're describing is also a symptom of compression leakage due to damaged valves or worn piston rings.

I think the compression for the f4i is around 170 psi. good luck.

lastly, what doe WOT mean?

 

Yes, the original mechanic did check for valve clearance and stated that the valves had enough clearance to avoid being slapped by the pistons. I could do a compression test, but I feel as though the valve seals are adequate. I bought the bike from the original owner who rode it very moderately and it had around 9K when I bought it. Lastly it was running just fine, after the CC install it ran like crap, but after I had it worked on by the first mechanic it ran perfectly for one day and then began running like crap again. I then took it to a dealer and had them check it out, they found the two vacuum lines open and a TPS sensor issue, they fixed those and it ran great for two weeks and then stopped running so great out of nowhere and began dying (it was already idling around 900 RPM when I got it back). I still need to check these vacuum lines.

So far what has been done:

PCIII sent to Dynojet, checked, and remapped. All working fine
FPR was replaced with a new FPR
All new NGK iridiums
Brand new CCT
Oil filter changed and oil changed with Mobil1
Engine was timed, checked for timing twice
PCIII removed because of shorted ground to the TPS
2 vacuum lines plugged
Idle increased to 1300 RPM


WOT stands for Wide Open Throttle

 

before you throw more money at it. please do the following:

1) check vacuum hoses, especially those 2 small ones that connect to the nipples of the air box.

2) do a compression test. I dont know why you are so confident about the condition of the valves, especially after telling us that the exhaust cam was misaligned. when cams fak up, you check for leaks. end of story. please youtube how to do compression test, and tell us the results.

if hoses and compression are good. then you need to drain the gas from the tank to inspect. Also, is the FI light on or blinking?

 

how did you install the CCT unit?

After you wind it up, lock the rod into place, and install the new CCT unit. Did you remember to release the lock, which allow the rod to expand again? I also assume you screw the end back in.

 

At the moment I'm waiting on the F4i service manual to arrive in my mailbox, I caved and ordered one. I know the dual hoses connected to the air box are connected, I'm concerned about holes in vacuum lines or unplugged lines. I'm confident because my first mechanic told me there was enough clearance for the valves when he checked them and he also checked them again after timing my chain and said it was tight, but still within alright spec. Also it has twice run just fine, but then out of nowhere just starts running ****ty again. My bike was running great for two weeks when I got it back from Ramsey Waite and all of sudden it died on me and then my problems returned with the slow and weak throttle response. So, I don't feel like it would be the valves or compression. But when I get my service manual I'll definitely be taking pictures. I do know how to do a compression test, but I will do a leakdown test if I find nothing with the vacuum system. Leakdown will tell me more. No, there are no FI lights, which sucks. I would love to have an FI light, it would actually be telling me there were a problem rather than me having to inspect for one. It pisses me off that I spend $300 and two mechanics can't figure out whats wrong with it.

 

Well I'm not a complete moron. Its pretty cut and dry how to install the CCT, but technically you're supposed to zip tie the cam chain before you install the CCT to obviously avoid what happened to me. When you pull the stick, the CCT spindle pops out and smacks the chain, it could have snaked my chain. But yes, the CCT was installed correctly. There is not cam chain noise anymore. Also the second mechanic verified that my bike was timed correctly.

 

please don't assume that I think you're an moron. we all want the same thing... ur bike running well and money in the bank. you seem to have started off by buying new stuff...while overlooking the free things . So lets work backwards a bit.

Aside from the valves...here are some other leads. Double check your battery connection. A bike running, dying, and crappy performance can caused by this. So take off the seat... and tighten down the battery.

Another lead, drain the gas. Check for sludge or contaminates. Is the gas sticky? My ex-girlfriend threw sugar in my gas tank once. So if the gas is old or dirty... fresh gas.

Lastly, let me clarify my concern regarding your valves. i dont know how ur exhaust cam was off by 1 tooth. In my opinion, if it was true then your bike wouldn't have ran. However, becuz you were told so, and you seem to believe it to be true, it is best to check for compression leak due to the possibility of damaged valves. The reason is that the valve measurements taken during the process of adjusting clearance cannot tell you if the valves are bent or damaged. In other words, damaged valves can hold proper clearance. It is better that you know for sure and are thorough before moving on....

--- while you have the airbox off.. check to see if all the hoses are connected... like the breather hose coming from the top of the engine cover. Make sure no fuel or air hoses are pinched. Is the throttle body seated properly?

 

A timing chain can be off and it was and it still ran, it just won't run so great depending on timing retard or advance. I had valve clearance so there was no damage to the valves, also there was no valve adjustment done. You would be able to tell if there were valve damage, especially at 13K RPM. The engine runs smooth at idle, no piston slap, no noisey valves. I took the bike apart, gas tank is clean, the bike is a very clean bike with only one owner and always garage kept. Premium fuel, I removed the fuel filter and will be putting in a new filter here soon. vacuum lines seem clear, shot some air into them and they flow correctly. Checked TPS continuity and voltage, everything was fine. No leaks. Will have to check a few more things before I take it to another mechanic I found.

 

it seems like the only thing left is the ecm. if you know someone with an F4i, try swapping it out and see.