I'm still trying to get my F4i running correctly after diagnosing a flickering FI light... this winter I ended up replacing my wiring harness, as well as ECU twice whilst tracking down electrical gremlens. I believe there was a short in the harness, which is now replaced. Since everything was torn apart, I performed a valve adjustment (3 intake shims were replaced, ~0.5 thousand out of spec), installed a manual cam chain tensioner, new battery as well as new spark plugs (they're pricey...)

*Not intentionally, I purchased & installed a California spec wiring harness, which includes wires for an O2 sensor, as well as an evaporative canistor valve. HYPOTHETICALLY, as long as the ECU is NOT California spec (was told it was not... FWIW shipped from Ohio...) these inputs/outputs should be ignored... experience would be GREAT... I'm Honda-illiterate.

Since getting the bike running this spring, I've had very rough idle quality, as if it was not firing on all cylinders all the time. The bike runs VERY rich at low RPM's, and conisistantly backfires flames out the exhaust. Cool for pictures, not cool for modulating the throttle at full lean...

I ran the codes on my bike, then reset the ECU. After riding around for a few miles I haven't had anything flash yet. Before resetting I did record the following:
8 blinks: Throttle Position Sensor - I checked connections, all good, it ran worse without it plugged in...
9 blinks: Intake Air Temp Sensor: Tested, operating correctly and within spec at ambient temp.
14 blinks: #3 injector
15 blinks: #4 injector

Its weird that I never had ANY of these problems before I swapped the wiring harness or ECU. It ran a little rich, but VERY smooth.

I would like to stress that I reset the ECU for the first time the other day, and have not had the codes return, however the bike still runs horribly. I am going to ride it again tomorrow, and conistantly check/diagnose codes IF they return. Again, as of now, I have none.

Any insight/sharing experience is greatly appreciated. I've searched through a lot of old threads, as well as scanned the WERA/NESBA sites for insight, but haven't found anything that I haven't already tried.
Thanks.
Tweeeeeeek! (eric)

ps: maybe i need new idle jets!! oh SNAP!! My Duc was SO much more reliable...

added: I have run fuel injector cleaner, and ~1500 miles of new fuel through it. Everything should be clean there. The bike runs well ~10k RPMs. I really need to approach one possible issue at once, but don't know where to begin, as this winter I checked nearly everything electrical... here I go again...

 

Have you checked your MAP sensor and ensured that everything was tight to all of your vacuum lines? I would also check the air filter.

 

hahaha

this thread is from 2006!

good looking out tryin to help tho!
at
For anyone else that ever digs this thread up, f4i's WILL Store their check engine codes even with the battery disconnected, for MONTHS. Until you do the PROPER reset proceedure, then check for any codes afterwards, then you wont know what's really wrong.

I'm 99% sure that (hs 2006 problem), that hte 2 injector codes would cause a no start condition, the ecu physically wouldn't pump fuel. I could be wrong on that, so odn't quote me!

What you can quote me on, is after making my own custom wire harness, I just found out the ECU wil hold codes for weeks to months sitting on yte bench with no battery.
I got my bike going last week, decided to check codes this weekend, I counted 4 sets of blinks, it started on the fifth set of blinks, and I got pissed the F-OFF, turned the power off, went to my laptop to look up those first 4 codes I found. Two were no start faults, which had my confused, then realized, AH-HAH! reset the ecu. Now there are no codes, which honestly, I kinda half expected at least 1 or 2 lol