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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 10:02 PM
  #21  
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well the manual says #2 is reference. and its obviously not the 2nd from the left. so It just confused me
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 10:03 PM
  #22  
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and im sure they use mercury for the viscosity . Its a denser liquid so its not so susceptible to being sucked us as easy. just my guess
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 10:10 PM
  #23  
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That's odd... according to the Honda Factory Service Manual for the '91-'94 CBR600F2....... "the number 2 carburetor is the base carburetor"

I may certainly be wrong, though..... but so is the factory service manual.

I know the Haynes manual that supposedly covers all 600F models and 1000F models 1987 to 1996 also says "number 2 cylinder (all 600 models and 1000H, J, K, L, M, N models or #3 cylinder on 1000 P onwards)

I know on the earlier model 1000F (I can only verify on a 1990), it is the #2 carb.
And on the later model 1000F (my 1995 1000FS/friends 1993 1000FP), it is definitely the #3 carb..... so that is correct.

Must be wrong with the 600 models??
Did they split the years on the 600 model also? (Like the 1991/1992 uses the #2 and the 1993/1994 uses #3?)
^^ This may make sense....

I have to know now.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 10:41 PM
  #24  
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That's confusing. Just go with the one that doesn't have an adjustment screw LOL.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 11:44 PM
  #25  
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That's confusing. Just go with the one that doesn't have an adjustment screw LOL.
I didn't mean to confuse you. Was just curious to know if the manuals were wrong and the reference carb # was split between the years.

You know what else would be simpler..... if peeps would just get the morgan carbtune with stainless rods instead of using the liquid balancers or hanging yardsticks and tubes full of various fluids from their garage ceilings.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 09:13 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by cbr900racer77
That's confusing. Just go with the one that doesn't have an adjustment screw LOL.
yeah bro i'm gonna do that, because i'm a little dizzy and confused with the carb reference.

Kilgoretrout you are right, in service manual says Carb #2 is the reference, and obviously carb #2 it's from cylinder #2.

But this question asked first C AVERAGE, ¿Can i unplug the vaccum port and a screw with the bike on(start)? or i need turn off change it and starts again?.

Cris
 

Last edited by cristopech12; Apr 28, 2010 at 09:21 AM. Reason: info missed
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 11:16 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by kilgoretrout
if peeps would just get the morgan carbtune with stainless rods instead of using the liquid balancers or hanging yardsticks and tubes full of various fluids from their garage ceilings.
I hear those rods aren't as accurate
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 06:32 PM
  #28  
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A test showing the 4 ports of the Morgan hooked up to a constant vacuum source also showed the Morgan's rods not being in the same line, exactly. I much prefer an adjustable liquid meter over something with any possibility for inaccuracy that can't be quickly tuned out of the system.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 06:40 PM
  #29  
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I hear those rods aren't as accurate
I think the key is checking columns against one another on the same carb, no matter what tool you use (especially with dial gauges).
I know there have been some issues with the accuracy of the motion pro units due to bubbles, too. (in addition to the spillage/suckage/leakage issues)

Regardless, my carbtune works flawlessly and has made a big difference on several bikes. It gets excellent reviews on forums, in bike mags, and from mechanics. Plus, morgan has been making these gauges for like 30yrs or some chit. They're simple and they work.
Throw it in your toolbag and go. No more screwing around. I think if you had one, you'd agree. (At the very least, you wouldn't have to worry about sucking stuff into your carbs... )
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 08:01 PM
  #30  
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Or Mercury poisoning LOL.
 
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