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Died while riding no start

Old Jun 9, 2015 | 03:01 PM
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Default Died while riding no start

Okay I’ll explain this the best I can. I have a 94 cbr600 f2. While riding all of a sudden my bike started jerking, and all the lights started flickering like it was turning off and on. I tried to give it gas and it got worse. I shut it off pushed it to safety and attempted to start again. Now I had nothing no clicks, no light, nothing. I trailered it home.
First thing I checked was the fuses because I had just replaced the battery earlier this season when I took it out of storage (about 3 months ago). Fuse close to battery was okay, fuses on the side were okay as well.
Second I checked over the wiring for splices and bad connectors those seemed to be okay.
Double checked the rectifier wiring it looked okay-I had replaced it last year along with the ignition switch (ignition switch because wheel would get stuck on lock position) Then rectifier because I was reading they go bad.
I then started testing wires started from the main one connected to battery. I turned on the key and the wire stopped getting power. Left off and the wire got power again.
I for the heck of it I had a spare battery I replaced the one in there and it started right up. But now no headlights. Bulbs ok

What should I check next? Other than make sure power at headlights
 
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Old Jun 12, 2015 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by psalas3
Okay I’ll explain this the best I can. I have a 94 cbr600 f2. While riding all of a sudden my bike started jerking, and all the lights started flickering like it was turning off and on. I tried to give it gas and it got worse. I shut it off pushed it to safety and attempted to start again. Now I had nothing no clicks, no light, nothing. I trailered it home.
First thing I checked was the fuses because I had just replaced the battery earlier this season when I took it out of storage (about 3 months ago). Fuse close to battery was okay, fuses on the side were okay as well.
Second I checked over the wiring for splices and bad connectors those seemed to be okay.
Double checked the rectifier wiring it looked okay-I had replaced it last year along with the ignition switch (ignition switch because wheel would get stuck on lock position) Then rectifier because I was reading they go bad.
I then started testing wires started from the main one connected to battery. I turned on the key and the wire stopped getting power. Left off and the wire got power again.
I for the heck of it I had a spare battery I replaced the one in there and it started right up. But now no headlights. Bulbs ok

What should I check next? Other than make sure power at headlights
The first problem you described, sounds like a loose connection at the battery or a dying battery. Swapping out the battery probably fixed that. I have no idea why that would make your headlight stop working.

Question is why did the battery die? How old was it?

You might have a wire that is shorting out somewhere. Might explain the battery and the headlight.

When you replaced the reg/rec, did you use another OEM, or a knockoff, or some other kind of reg/rec?

You might also want to check the kill switch, kickstand switch. They've been known to come loose. They can kill the engine, but they shouldn't kill power to rest of the bike. Just a thought.

An where are you in MN? I'm local if you get really stuck.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil314
Question is why did the battery die? How old was it?

When you replaced the reg/rec, did you use another OEM, or a knockoff, or some other kind of reg/rec?

You might also want to check the kill switch, kickstand switch. They've been known to come loose. They can kill the engine, but they shouldn't kill power to rest of the bike. Just a thought.

An where are you in MN? I'm local if you get really stuck.
I had replaced the battery in the beginning of the season.
I bought it from Amazon I'm sure it wasn't OEM. I can't remember the brand. I did however test the new battery it is fine.
I checked power on the 3 wires for head light the solid blue one has no power (low beam) but the blue/white one does . (Hi beam)
I did check the kill switch it was good.

I live in Eagan MN
 
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by psalas3
I had replaced the battery in the beginning of the season.
I bought it from Amazon I'm sure it wasn't OEM. I can't remember the brand. I did however test the new battery it is fine.
I checked power on the 3 wires for head light the solid blue one has no power (low beam) but the blue/white one does . (Hi beam)
I did check the kill switch it was good.

I live in Eagan MN
Ok, power comes from the battery. Goes through the ignition, one of the fuse box fuses, through the start button, through the hi/lo switch, then to the headlight.

So does the high beam work correctly? It turns on with the key and goes out when you push the starter button? If this all works correctly, then the problem is most likely in the hi/lo switch. I'm assuming your headlight isn't just burnt out on the low beam? Do you have a manual with a wiring diagram?

I've personally had/seen bad luck with aftermarket reg/recs. The newer OEM are rock solid. They cost a bit, but are well worth it if you enjoy riding your bike more than working on it.

I work in burnsville.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 03:26 PM
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One more thing - the blue/white wire is power for both the high/low going to the hi/lo switch. Out of the switch, going to the headlight, the white is low beam and the blue is high beam, the green is ground.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil314
Ok, power comes from the battery. Goes through the ignition, one of the fuse box fuses, through the start button, through the hi/lo switch, then to the headlight.

So does the high beam work correctly? It turns on with the key and goes out when you push the starter button? If this all works correctly, then the problem is most likely in the hi/lo switch. I'm assuming your headlight isn't just burnt out on the low beam? Do you have a manual with a wiring diagram?

I've personally had/seen bad luck with aftermarket reg/recs. The newer OEM are rock solid. They cost a bit, but are well worth it if you enjoy riding your bike more than working on it.

I work in burnsville.
I do have a manual. I had an extra switch thru it in with no change . Power is at the fuses.

Bulb is good. Hi beam only . I thought ground was Brown
 
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 04:23 PM
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Thanks for the walk through of the diagram it was sort of confusing.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by psalas3
I do have a manual. I had an extra switch thru it in with no change . Power is at the fuses.

Bulb is good. Hi beam only . I thought ground was Brown
Ok, if you flip the hi/lo switch and the high beam goes out but the low beam doesn't come on, then you've either got a bad low beam wire (it goes straight from the switch to the headlight) or you've got a burnt out low beam. The only other possibility is that the connector where the switch plugs into the harness is bad (broken pin/corroded).

Both my manuals show (dark) green for the ground at the headlight.
 

Last edited by Phil314; Jun 14, 2015 at 04:51 PM.
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 02:58 PM
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If I jump power from fuse to hi beam it liggts. I try the same with low beam nothing.I swapped bulbs with no change. I had a spare switch and that did the same thing. The test switch was used -maybe that is bad too. I took it off another f2 that I used to have. I made a few wire repairs that made no difference. What feeds power to switch. If I wasn't so ocd I would just run power off fuse to light.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by psalas3
If I jump power from fuse to hi beam it liggts. I try the same with low beam nothing.I swapped bulbs with no change. I had a spare switch and that did the same thing. The test switch was used -maybe that is bad too. I took it off another f2 that I used to have. I made a few wire repairs that made no difference. What feeds power to switch. If I wasn't so ocd I would just run power off fuse to light.
If you jump from the fuse to the hi beam on the headlight, you've bypass both the starter switch and the hi/lo switch. You are basically running power to the headlight and then to ground. If the high beam works in that case, you've got power and ground. and if the low beam doesn't, then you pretty much have to have a bad bulb (or 2). That's as simple a circuit as it gets.

The only other possibility is that you aren't hooking up the wires in the way that you think your hooking up the wires. Double check all your basic assumptions. It's often a small simple thing. And that can send us down a wrong diagnostic path. It's sounds like you know your stuff, but even the best of us can make a simple mistake every now and then.
 
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