cbr f2 carb questions
#1
cbr f2 carb questions
so today rebuilding the carbs so! does the main jet that sets on the needlejet , do both of these get 2.5 turns out? or just the main jet, I have noticed that the needle jet doesn't set flush with the carb,
and next question is.. bike petcock was changed from vacuum to free flowing
will this bother the carbs at all?
and last question!!! there are 2 breather hoses ?? on top of the carbs that where not connected to any thing this normal or do these connect to each other or somewhere that I don't know about??
and next question is.. bike petcock was changed from vacuum to free flowing
will this bother the carbs at all?
and last question!!! there are 2 breather hoses ?? on top of the carbs that where not connected to any thing this normal or do these connect to each other or somewhere that I don't know about??
#2
Not quite sure what you're talking about concerning needle jet not flush. But "needle jet" doesnt get 2.5 turns out. The fuel screw that is actually out side of the carb bowls gets the "turns out". They can be adjusted when the carbs a completely assembled. With a gravity feed petcock, if your not riding turn the petcock off. No, the two little breather hoses dont connect to nothing.
#4
If you are cleaning the carbs, turn the screws in snug, recording how many turns each one took. I can guarantee that if you place each one back to 2.5 turns out that the bike will be running really rich. Also, don;t touch any of the screws that set the carbs for airflow when the bike is at idle. i made the mistake of touching one. Now the carbs need to be synced AND the idle needs to be set after. Just a PIA when it would have been perfect had I not touched anything.
Be careful putting the bowls back in as you may pinch a gasket. also be careful of the needle valves. I had one that went bad on me and it took a while to figure out which one. If you have a free flow petcock, you have to remember to shut it off every single time you shut the bike off. Or else you will have a cylinder full of fuel in no time as the fuel pressurizes in the tank and pushes past the needle valve.
Be careful putting the bowls back in as you may pinch a gasket. also be careful of the needle valves. I had one that went bad on me and it took a while to figure out which one. If you have a free flow petcock, you have to remember to shut it off every single time you shut the bike off. Or else you will have a cylinder full of fuel in no time as the fuel pressurizes in the tank and pushes past the needle valve.
#5
Redsilver, I'm not sure where you're from, but the initial settings for the pilot screws for a 49-state bike is 2 1/8 turns, for a California bike it's 2 3/4, and Canadian F2's are 2 turns out.
If you have an OEM-type paper air filter, 2 1/2 will be a bit rich, especially if the filter is dirty, but if you have a K&N air filter, or other brand of "Hi-Flow" air filter, and it's been recently cleaned and oiled, then 2 1/2 would be an Ok starting point.
If you have an OEM-type paper air filter, 2 1/2 will be a bit rich, especially if the filter is dirty, but if you have a K&N air filter, or other brand of "Hi-Flow" air filter, and it's been recently cleaned and oiled, then 2 1/2 would be an Ok starting point.
#6
I have a 94 with a cleaned and oiled k&n and a yoshi can, I found my sweet spot was between 2 1/2 and 2 3/4 out. I started at 2 1/2 which worked great for idling and what not but after a 50 mile ride found I had to play with it and adjust it some. It's definitely trial and error. But the 2 1/2 is a starting point. You will more then likely have to fine tune it after words....
#7
#8
Wow, it is strange you guys would need so many turns out. When I took my carbs off, I found that two were at two turns and the others were about 1 3/4. When I set it back at the 2 1/4 the bike was so rich it was popping and really smelling of fuel. The bike wouldn't go anywhere.
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