btw did where did you get your switch from autoparts store walmart where?

 

It's reading neutral in every gear cause your clutch diode is bad. Once you replace that you should be ok. If your up to it just take your switch assemble off your clipon, take it apart , clean and grease the contacts and be done with it. The same thing happened to mine. Unfortunatly mine sat outside a LONG time and water got into the switches on both sides and corroded the contacts.

 

I got a my switch at the honda dealer.Which I should have bought one on ebay and saved some money but I wanted oem niceness.I also forgot another glitchy problem with the f2 is the starter seloniod/fuze. If you run your bike without a rear fender/chain guard it leaves the unit exposed to water and starts to rust and stick causing a no power at all situation... no lights, no starter, nothing. Enjoy....LOL

 

I second that. The first time I got caught in the rain after removing my rear fender I could'nt go but a couple miles without it dieing on me.

 

well i was going through the trouble tree and diagnosed the diode turns out it was ****ed up but i spent 8$ on a neutral switch just in case which btw I'm looking at and it seems like I'm going to need a socket with a slot in it to go around the wire otherwise idk how im going to get it off its to deep in for anything i can think anyone got any ideas???

BTW what is the starter solenoid fuse is that the main fuse, there's a holder underneath the relay for a 30 amp fuse but thats connected to anything your not talking about that are you?

 

yeah, one in the same. I hate this F"N thing. I mean the location of the soleniod/fuse. If i had known that this stupid little part was that sensitive I would have rapped it in shrink rap fallowed by some rino lining. This f'n part left me stranded acouple of time's already! But im really lazy and low on cash so I just rig it to work and ride like that.... and try to stay out of the rain.

 

once that diode starts working ill have more voltage going to the g/r (starter relay) wire in the coil which will fix the diode and it'll start?

I did a functional test on the relay it worked and had .50 ohms of resistance on the battery terminals when the relay was energized apparently, was kinda surprised the common manual told me to do that

I already disconnected my switch hooked it up to another one with a self-illuminating light and noticed when i disconnected the diode and bridged the g/r and the wire to the neutral switch (light blue) the light would get brighter on the switch anyone know what the technicalities of this are? still a bit confusing to me.

 

well I manually overrided the switch with a button switch for the headlights (blu/wht & blk) and a momentary toggle switch for the starter (y/r/ & blk). push button switch was from walmart and originally I had the push button wired to the starter but that didn't work so I took three 16g wires and wrapped them together around the frame to make a new ground. I dont know which of them, the exchanging of switches or new ground, actually fixed the problem. I bypassed the kill switch too since I personally think its unnecessary and only makes it more complicated to diagnose a faulty sidestand switch. Anyways now I know have spark but its still not starting the next step is pull the plugs and see if they're getting fuel, unless someone knows a better way to go about this. Please let me know if you do.

Also the neutral light now turns on in the proper gear, bad diode.