Seems like this sub-forum has been dead lately, but since I still have a fondness of help/information from fellow members I'll pst my question and do a write up on the subject if I can successfully complete this mod.

Anyhow; I just bought a 07 1000rr on/off starter kill switch in mint condition for 15$,05 R6 throttle housing and tube for 9$, in case that doesn't work out for me I am hunting down a 1000rr/600rr throttle housing (uses the same type of throttle angles from the bar side housing as my f3) all from fleabay with free shipping. Looking to modernize some aesthetics of my little ugly duckling.

I haven't taken a gander at the wiring diagram for the f3 yet but I recall when I got the bike buttoned back up last week from my teardown the starter / Kill switch having two connectors to the harness and roughly seven wires to the plug(the rr only seems to have 3 pins in the connector but unsure since I haven't gotten it yetI plan on matching the connection-plugs either to the 1000rr plug or the f3 from their respected harnesses. I'm no electrician, but I figure in theory they could absolutely work considering they both share the same exact responsibility on the bike (as far as I know they both go the same place to perform their duty). Haven't seen anyone do it on the f3 but I have seen some forum posts on older Cb's updating their switches to 1000rr. The only I have heard of is the wiring being backwards: on became off & off became on. The fix to that I would assume you could just reverse the wiring?

All that being said, I think I can get this accomplished, has anyone done this or seen this done on any of the 95-8 Era F3's/hondas or any bike for that matter? In theory it makes complete sense and should be an easy fit, but as things always turn out for my F3 and I, nothing comes easy.

I know I can make the throttle housings work. I have faith since I have had to reroute them several times now for different reasons/applications after much trial and error. I think this will look great once it's done. If by chance I get this figured out with one fail swoop, I'll post up a write up with Pictures.

 

Ah, you're going with a quick-throttle, right? You didn't get the Motion Pro throttle tube, but an OEM one from ebay, yes?


And you should easily be able to wire that in. As you said, it's just a switch, the load that goes through both of them should be the same. I had an 1000rr throttle and kill switch on my 954 when it was still 954 wiring and ECU.

 

Quick throttle and aesthetic purposes. I like the detached look.
Oem sleeve. Is there a difference in the motion pro vs oem?

As for the switch, did you change the connectors or was it plug and play?

 

Oh yeah, I had to change the plug on it, but no big deal, nothing some solder and shrink wrap won't take care of. I just compared the wiring diagrams back and forth.

I went an bought a MotionPro OEM replacement throttle tube from eBay-and it ended up being a standard 1/4 throttle tube instead of the 1/6 turn throttle that the r6 really uses. I went to a dealership, and all they offered were the motion-pro replacement tubes. They used the same cam as the R6s - which is the standard 1/4 tube.

I eventually bought a real 1/6 r6 tube off of eBay (from a salvaged bike), and sure enough they are different, and when I called motion pro, they just make all of their tubes 1/4 turn because they want you to buy their MotionPro Quick Turn Throttle Kit if you want 1/6 turn.

 

Awesome, I'm stoked on all of the things I have planned for this project. I snatched up a ton of parts from eBay for dirt cheap to throw on her. Random question, there is a seal from the air box cover I cannot find ANYWHERE. Part no 17222-MAL-600,
Could I use some of that gasket maker squeeze tube stuff and make my own seal?

 

That should be it using these two diagrams I found on Google. DOUBLE CHECK FOR YOURSELF BEFORE YOU DO IT!!!!



CBR F3 Wiring Harness -----------------> 1000RR Ignition/Kill Switch

Brakes

(To Brake Light) Green w/ Yellow ----> Green w/Yellow
(12V power) Brown ----> White w/Green

**Black w/Brown splice to Brown before your plug via quick splice

Kill Switch

(from fuse) Black -----------> Black
(to Ign. and Fuel cut off) Black w/ White -------> White w/Black


Starter Switch

Yellow w/ Red --------------------------------------> Yellow w/ Red (Starter Relay)
Black w/ Red ---------------------------------------> Black w/ Red (Headlight Relay)
Blue w/ White ----------------------------------------> Blue w/ White (Dimmer Switch)

 

Thanks, that's super helpful. Any thoughts on the airbox seal?

 

I don't think I'd use form a gasket, that would create the major pain the next time you remove the cover. What you need really isn't a gasket, in that sense of the word.
One thing that you might try is going to Home Depot or the like. There will be a section that sells screens and materials for window and door screens. In that section there will be spools of rubber string looking stuff. That stuff is pressed down in grooves to hold the screens in place. They may have a diameter that would work for you.

 

I bought motion pro throttle tubes for the R6 from Dennis Kirk, to put on my F2. It was definitely bigger than the stock Honda tube, but not as big as the R6 tube I bought from the dealer to put on my 08 CBR 1000RR. I specified a certain year at the shop to make sure I got the biggest tube but I forget what year I specified. I follow instruction from 1000rr.net r6 thottle, they say what year to get so you get the big one.

 

I actually know exactly what youre talking about as I just re-screened my moms patio. Cool, Ill just bring the airbox section I need it for into lowes when I get the base replacement in tomorrow [hopefully today] and see what I can come up with. Fairly certain Ive had a pretty bad air leak issue for quite some time, the tounged-washers that hold the stacks down were missing screws and one of the tabs broke off of the airbox base during some work the PO had done while putting the bike together, aside from that there were no gaskets on my headers or on any of the airbox parts in general. The pair mod/delete has been done on the bike and my mechanic swears up and down that theyre DRASTICALLY[/B] affecting the bikes power availability. But I cant see how it could be taking such a toll on performance, as far as I know those solenoids are controlled by signals from the speedometer and that has been removed from the bike leaving harness plug just unplugged and sitting in the rats nest that is my wiring harness. So if the speedometer is non existent along with the solenoids; I shouldnt have anything restricting power aside from the air leak issues, correct?

She just got fresh manifold boots. So I am hoping with the new base and the seals it will show drastic improvement in the power department.