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First time painting, Rattle Can........any tips?

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  #11  
Old 04-11-2010, 05:34 PM
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ppg is a good brand imo
 
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Old 04-13-2010, 10:35 AM
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just drop the extra money and get it done right the first time. By the time you get all the runs and uneven areas out and have re-sanded it a hundred times you would have wished you just got it done by a pro. Save yourself some time and frustration. Paint isn't the place to cut corners.
 
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Old 04-13-2010, 03:29 PM
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I know it's been said 6 times already, but this stuff really irritates me. DO NOT RATTLE CAN YOUR BIKE. Look at ALL the time you're spending trying to make it look nice. WHat's your time worth? PLUS, even if you do it PERFECTLY, it's not going to match right, and it's going to start cracking in 3-6 months anyway, thus negating all of your hard work. Drop the $100 and take it to a pro.
 
  #14  
Old 04-14-2010, 10:20 AM
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actually you COULD rattle can your bike and it wouldnt crack but it would be a little more costly than regular cheap paint. Get interior paint that will flex with the plastic and not crack. too easy
 
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Old 04-14-2010, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by bubba_finch07
actually you COULD rattle can your bike and it wouldnt crack but it would be a little more costly than regular cheap paint. Get interior paint that will flex with the plastic and not crack. too easy
good idea, but interior paint for a car has a different chemical make up to keep it from eating your plastic and doesnt play well with every clear coat. I agree with the masses and say prof paint is always gonna be better but i have also rattle canned a few car parts with DECENT not perfect results. the sanding and propper layers is the key. like posted earlier primer sealer paint clear. lol as far as what spray can to use, a "tagger" told me at the store to use krylon, the second or third time i was buyin paint, for the spray tip and i think he was right. the paint itself may not be as good as others but the better spray made it alot easier to get it right.
 
  #16  
Old 06-11-2010, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by johnnyx
Drop the $100 and take it to a pro.
$100 to paint a bike? is it really that cheap?

Do you remove all the paintable parts and give it to him for the $100?

Is this a maaco type paint job for $100?

That seems very low - but I don't have much knowledge on paint.
 
  #17  
Old 06-16-2010, 08:33 AM
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I would have to say if the guy is willing/wanting to do the job himself, let him do it. Taking the time to do the work and learning something can be very rewarding, even if nobody else recognizes or appreciates it.
The KEY to a good quality paint job is in the PREPERATION!
If it hasn't sunk in yet P R E P E R A T I O N ! ! !
It really doesn't matter what kind of paint, whether it's general purpose or some top end brand. You can paint your bike via a rattle can. Being patient and paying attention to what you're doing is vital. The best spray cans (nozzles) are on the Duplicolor products. They allow better coverage with less fogging.
Being patient to take the steps for a quality job is also good advice. Getting the itch to slap the parts on before they're cured is tempting but will quickly ruin your project.
 
  #18  
Old 09-27-2010, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Ayres_08
Well if u wanna do it right ur missing some steps.

First: Sand it down with some 220 grit sand paper. You do not have to get all the paint off, just make it smooth and make sure their are no runs flat spots. (try to get a sanding block, useing ur hands to sand makes grooves.)

Second: Use some 800 grit and sand over the part you just sanded. Just to even out the scuff marks.

Third: Get a can of filler primer. This really helps on bad spots in your part. Then spray 2-3 coats depending on the shape of the tail.

Fourth: Sand the primer down swith some 1000 grit sand paper. Filler primer is rough and textured so it will take some time.

Fifth: Get a can of sealer. Preferably the color your painting the bike. This is very smooth substance and lays out flat.

Sixth: Sand the Sealer with 1500 Grit sandpaper.

Seventh: Spray your base coat (color), ide say 3 coats. The first coat needs to be pretty rough. Should make it look speckeled. Then the 2nd and 3rd coat should be heavier.

Eighth: Sand your base coat with 1500 grit and make sure u dont have any runs. Please make sure u dont get to the sealer because it makes for a ****ty look. This is the reason u get the same color sealer. So if u do it doesnt look like u have a white spot in your paint.

Ninth: Spray a Clear Coat. You said gloss but its called clear coat. I sprayed 5 coats on mine but I did a professional job and also have 3 coats of pearl in mine. You pick. 3-6 coats.

Tenth: Sand your clear coat with 1500 grit and then buff with some turtle wax or something.... Make sure u dont sand to the base coat!!!

Let me know if u have any questions.
damn good write up. Just want to add a couple of things if that is ok. before going to step 3, rinse off the tail (that just sounds bad). you want to make sure you got everything. you can just stick it in the sink or tub or outside with a hose and rinse it off. You can either use soap or just water. I would recommend soap and just clean the whole thing off, even the parts you may not be painting.
Also, be sure you get primer that is made for plastic. easy to find. either at automotive paint section or get the stuff from home depot, lowes, walmart, etc. its all the same, it just cheaper outside of the automotive section. And dont listen to anyone if they say this wont work because of the heat. This stuff holds up on outdoor furniture and for parts under the hood of a car.
also, after sanding the clear coat and before the wax, throw some polish on it. it will improve the look of the sanded clear coat and will stand out once the wax is applied.
It would be a good idea to wash, polish and wax the entire bike to help with the paint matching. Depending on how old your bike is, some of the rest of the body could have faded and the tail will stick out like a sore thumb.
Above all, ask as many questions as needed. We are always here to help.
 
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