CBR 954RR 2002 - 2003 - CBR 954RR Forum

Dreaded Tranny Problem

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #61  
Old 03-26-2011, 06:24 PM
ninz49z's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Okay PAIR mod? I'm assuming this is the two hoses off of the valve cover? How do you do this one, or is it already in this forum somewhere to where i can search it?
 
  #62  
Old 03-26-2011, 07:01 PM
Conrice's Avatar
Retired Super Moderator and Fighterer
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,146
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

ya, the two boxes with hoses on top of the valve cover that go to the valve with a hose going to the airbox. i didn't do the "free" pair mod, and there a write up on here i think. i bought block-off plates on ebay. you can ditch the valve and there is no code for doing it, sell it on ebay

it pulls air from the airbox and throws it into the exhaust side of the head to burn any unburned gas as it enters the headers.... if you ever do decide to dyno-tune it, they won't be able to get a good a/f ratio read on it because of the PAIR, some people say they have gained power from it (i didn't notice any). still, it frees up a lot of room under the airbox, and it gets rid of something that's going to break eventually.
 
  #63  
Old 03-26-2011, 11:39 PM
ninz49z's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yea I've found some block off plates on ebay for about 30 bucks I think Ill go with. I'm trying to figure out all the small easy mods I can get done while I already have it all apart ya know. Any thing else small cheap and easy I can do?
 
  #64  
Old 03-27-2011, 11:17 AM
Conrice's Avatar
Retired Super Moderator and Fighterer
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,146
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

if you have another 30 to spend, get a servo motor removal module.... its a computer chip the size of a nickel, you can tuck it into you wiring harness, and you can sell your servo motor, and get rid of it all together. pdfruth - search that on google and you'll see what i'm talking about.

other than that, you know how there is no fuel cut-off valve? what i did was got some quick disconnects so that when i need to pull the tank, i don't make a huge mess. remember you need two of them. but its made life a lot easier, i have it on both my 954s.

MOTION PRO FUEL LINE QUICK-DISCONNECT COUPLINGS from Parts Unlimited ATV & UTV
 
  #65  
Old 03-27-2011, 10:44 PM
ninz49z's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Alright yea ill probably definitely do that too then thanks, and that quick disconnect does seem like it could make things a lil easier. I think after I get all this done my mods will be close to yours, what map are you currently using on the PC? I need to use one that says eliminates HTEV right?
 
  #66  
Old 03-28-2011, 08:09 AM
Conrice's Avatar
Retired Super Moderator and Fighterer
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,146
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

ya, i'm using the the two bros half system (eliminates HTEV). but i had to advance the ignition to make it run right for me. i also used the moriwaki full system when i was using a d&d pipe (thats now on the repsol). you'll just have to see what works right for you, but if you're going to be close to my mods... i wouldnt even bother with the slip-ons. none of them were even close for me.
 
  #67  
Old 03-28-2011, 01:45 PM
ninz49z's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Okay so I'm expecting to get all my parts in tomorrow from bikebandit EXCEPT one freggin bolt, so I just went ahead and canceled it and ordered that one from the dealer so hopfully Thursday night I'll be posting good news on here (my next day off). As far as the PC I think I'm just gonna kinda start from scratch and like you said see what I feel, and like the best. Now right now I still obviously have the case split, what is the easiest way to put the two back togeather? To set the trans in the bottom case with the shift forks and set the engine on it or........?
 
  #68  
Old 03-29-2011, 07:21 AM
Bidds's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

No. The trans has to go in the upper cas then set the lower on. Theres tiny pins that the mainshaft and countershaft bearings sit on that have to be lined up in the upper. If your like me you didn't pull the cam chain guide and shift drum and forks so you will need to get someone to line up the shift forks and guide them in while you set the lower in place. Also make sure you follow the manual on torquing the main bolts down. If i remember correctly they go in 3 steps with the last one being 150 degrees of rotation.
 
  #69  
Old 03-29-2011, 12:07 PM
Conrice's Avatar
Retired Super Moderator and Fighterer
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,146
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

correct, with the engine upside down, you'll assemble the trans into the upper case. then fit the lower case to the upper while its still upside down.
 
  #70  
Old 03-29-2011, 06:04 PM
ninz49z's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Okay well I do still have one problem, I absoultly can not find a torqe wrench that goes below 10 Ft. lbs, the lowest inch lbs I found is 120 which is 10 Ft. Lbs. So what should I do? I mean 7lbs is not alot so could I just get them good and snug and then go ahead and torqe them down to the 14? Also I don't have the special holding tool to tighten the lock nut back down on the clutch so is there anything else I can use? The special tool is wayyy to expensive.
 


Quick Reply: Dreaded Tranny Problem



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:27 AM.