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Dreaded Tranny Problem

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  #21  
Old 03-10-2011, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Conrice
my drum and forks were okay. i just checked them, and didn't see any significant wear on the sides of them, and they were straight, so i re-used them. i'm sure the 929 tranny does work since the 954 is just a bored out 929, but i don't know that the tranny's swap for sure. stretch bolts is what i call them, and the guy at honda knew what i was talking about, but if you're looking online, you can also search main / crankshaft bolts as well. just get the gasket for the stator, then INDIAN HEAD engine shellack the machined surfaces back together (engine case, oil pan, etc.), and you should be good to go

Sweet like I said I'm starting feel alot more comfortable about it now that I'm reading up on it and you pretty much answered all my other questions lol But I plan on getting it good tomorrow after I get off work. The only thing I see being a problem for me is finding a way to keep the darn thing up after I unbolt the swingarm but if i have to get an engine hoist from work I'm sure I could do that(hopefully the boss will let me). But I'll get some more pics up of where I get tomorrow night. Thanks Conrice wished ya lived closer so I could ride with ya and buy ya a beer after I get through this mess lol


ps. I'll know when I get all the gears in neutral b/c the main shaft will be the only one that will turn when I spin it right? I know dumb question but I second guess the hell outta myself lol I have to see, hear, or read it then I feel better about it
 

Last edited by ninz49z; 03-10-2011 at 07:03 PM.
  #22  
Old 03-10-2011, 07:41 PM
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hey man, no problem, thats why we're here.

and yup, thats right, countershaft won't spin, main shaft will.


as far as what to do about the frame, engine, and swinger... what i did was i unbolted the engine from the frame leaving it still attached to the swinger. you have to unplug the whole harness, remove shock links, etc. then you can pull the frame up away from the engine and leave it sit by itself (it will balance itself on the subframe and front wheel). then deal with removing the swingarm from the engine by itself. you'll eventually just have the motor left.
 
  #23  
Old 03-10-2011, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Conrice
hey man, no problem, thats why we're here.

and yup, thats right, countershaft won't spin, main shaft will.


as far as what to do about the frame, engine, and swinger... what i did was i unbolted the engine from the frame leaving it still attached to the swinger. you have to unplug the whole harness, remove shock links, etc. then you can pull the frame up away from the engine and leave it sit by itself (it will balance itself on the subframe and front wheel). then deal with removing the swingarm from the engine by itself. you'll eventually just have the motor left.

Awesome deff. gonna give that a shot then, I'm sure I'll have a few more questions along the way.
 
  #24  
Old 03-11-2011, 07:18 AM
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Although i havent had the pleasure replacing the tranny ill give some input. If you go into the engine removal write up you will see the tool I made out of a 24mm bolt and 2 nuts. Cost me like 5 bucks and now I have one that is mine. If you have a wrench or adjustable wrench then no need for a new breaker bar/ ratchet. Good luck.
 
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:38 PM
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  #26  
Old 03-11-2011, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by txsmainevent
Although i havent had the pleasure replacing the tranny ill give some input. If you go into the engine removal write up you will see the tool I made out of a 24mm bolt and 2 nuts. Cost me like 5 bucks and now I have one that is mine. If you have a wrench or adjustable wrench then no need for a new breaker bar/ ratchet. Good luck.

I would have never thought of that! Awesome idea man, see thats why I get on here, you get so many people togeather with good heads(obviously we own Honda 954rr's) you're bound to come out with some good **** lol. Okay I'm deff. gonna take a look at that but one question, How do you tighten them back to specs with just a wrench?

Okay and another question, Conrice you said it's easier to turn the engine upside down and then split the case, when I turn it up side down is it gonna hurt for it to be resting on the throttle body?

Just an addition here because I thought it was hilarious and ridicules at the same time. Now may I remind you I've only had this bike for a few weeks and realy have'nt had the chance to get on the road and ride it b/c the tranny, or did I do any maintenance b/c I knew I was gonna be tearing it apart any ways. So today I removed the tank and the air filter, well I pull the air filter and what do I find? An *** load of dog food and insulation a rat had carried into the airbox some how! Luckly it was all on the side of the air box that none could reach the engine b/c it was on the bottom side of the filter. My guess is that the tard I bought the bike from: 1. Was doing a burnout or some dumbass act to screew the tranny up (back tire has burnout marks on it)
2. He did'nt know how to change a spark plug in his weed eater so did'nt bother to mess with tring to fix it and did'nt have the money to pay someone b/c his parents would'nt give it to him which caused him to have to set it up for some time and thats when the rat moved in.

Crazy huh? Kinda pissed me off a bit lol but thankfully the engine still ran good and strong but I was wondering what is some maintenance I could do to the engine while I have it out that would be harder when it was back in the bike. I've been hearing alot about checking valve clearence, how do you do this on these engines?

I bought Mobile 1 4T 10w-40 to put back in the bike to be complimented by an K & N oil filter. Is this a pretty good combination?

Well got my pics up if yall will take a look at em and see if ya see anything outta ordinary, thanks!
 
  #27  
Old 03-11-2011, 10:01 PM
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I would remove the throttle bodies from the block. Its easier then removing the throttle cables (for me it was). I would seriously remove the throttle bodies..... That damn lower throttle cable was kicking my *** so i said screw it. You could always get a socket with a torque wrench and do it that away. I know technically I should torque it down but I kind of but *** behind it and call it "good".....I know I know, not the right answer.....
 
  #28  
Old 03-11-2011, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by txsmainevent
I would remove the throttle bodies from the block. Its easier then removing the throttle cables (for me it was). I would seriously remove the throttle bodies..... That damn lower throttle cable was kicking my *** so i said screw it. You could always get a socket with a torque wrench and do it that away. I know technically I should torque it down but I kind of but *** behind it and call it "good".....I know I know, not the right answer.....

Yea It took me a bit but I finally got the bottom cable off, I could take the throttle body off but I'm trying to make it as less work as possible. I know, I know also lol while I have it out I might as well, but its riding weather here in TN and I'm ready to ride, this winter I plan on getting it apart and doing a good deep clean on it and treat this bike as it should be. Where's your write up on the removal? I tried searching and could'nt find it.
 
  #29  
Old 03-11-2011, 10:46 PM
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Which bolts are the "strech" bolts and how many of them are there and what size are they?
 
  #30  
Old 03-12-2011, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ninz49z
Which bolts are the "strech" bolts and how many of them are there and what size are they?
The stretch bolts are the 10 bolts that go through the case around the crank journals. The're 9 mm thread and you have to get them from a dealer. 4 of one length 5 of another and one long one.
 


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