there's always going to be some black smoke when you rev it, especially when you are in the garage on a back stand revving it. have your wife/gf follow you in the car and tell you wants going on when you actually ride it.



and go through the troubleshooting codes section in the manual. it's in the FI chapter (section 5). anyways, it says to then check the voltage to the ECU via some special connector (you could just use a tack poked through the wires). if you have voltage there, it says you have a bad ECU.... if you don't have voltage, then it's something in the wiring...

and you shouldn't be able to get a code 35 if you don't have the cables hooked up. code 35 happens when the servo tries to turn, but the cables are backwards on the HTEV making it impossible for the servo to move. make sure you check your connections. however, i would assume you'd be getting a code 34 too if it was something servo related.

 

okay, i just found another section in the FI chapter about the MAP.

it says that when you check the V at the ECU about the map, it should read between 2.7-3.1 V. then, depending on your elevation (because it's reading atmospheric pressure), it drops in V relative to the higher up you are. it's a scale. at 6000 ft above sea level, it says you should read between 2.1 and 2.5 V at the ECU. at 1500 ft. above sea level, you should be reading about 2.5-2.9 V to the ECU. if you have 5V at the ECU, i would say it probably is a bad MAP.

 

I did test the map with volt meter and a vaccum pump. I hooked up the volt meter and pump like directions say. With the map connected I measured current at the thgree wires. One has zero, the other has 2.9 and the last one has 5 volts. When I pump pressure into the map sensor the wire with 2.9 drops in voltage incrementally as more pressure is pumped into the map. When I put the volt meter on the wire with 5 volts and pump pressure, it does not drop, it stays the same. That's why I think the map is ok.

 

ya, if it does that, then it sounds like it is okay. i thought you just had the wires with 5 V. my mistake.

 

Yes, I'll check the voltage going into the ecu to verify a bad unit. And have a friend ride behind me and watch when I accelerate to see if it smokes bad still. Only thing is that its running very strong other than the ploom of black smoke on high revs.

 

@backdoc- I've tried the reset procedure in the manual six or seven times. I'll keep trying.

If I do end up needing the sensor, I'll contact you. Thanks

 

I've been looking up info on the the pc's. Could it be possible or Has anyone herd of the 954 running rich With the pair valve, flapper and htev mods I have?, do these bikes normally run ok (fuel/ air ratio wise) with these mods? In other words, can I get a pc tune to dump less fuel on hard excelleration? I'm wondering if these mods are causing the bike to run rich. Common sense tells me that if anything, these mods would cause a lean condition?

I don't mind working hard and doing the footwork to get this diagnosed but, the responses and help is still very much apreciated. Thanks again.

 

well, i took my bike on its first test run tonight with my riding buddies. they said its still smoking the same as before the tune up. sooty black smoke on hard acceleration. my friend said it seemed to blow smoke in between shifts.

another way to describe it is, i would accelerate hard from third to fourth to fifth to sixth. i would get on the throttle then.. shift..poof..shift.. poof..shift.. poof got me stumped. i cant give up though im getting close to a fix, i can feel it.

also, i reset the MIL light and it finally reset itself i think, thats what it looks like anyway. by following the procedure in the shop manual i reset it and now when i crank it the MIL stays light up and does not blink any codes anymore. so i guess that means its reset.

 

i think what i'll do for now is watch the oil consumption and call it normal operation. fornow anyway.

from what i gather, all the research and reading ive done in the last week or so (on all performance engines in general) and what seems to be common on "open exhaust high revving performance engines especially " is that running rich at wide open throttle is typical- since power is called for, the ecu richens the mixture. that, and a ton of carbon build up being blown out the open type exhaust when the throttle is ripped on. i dont know, just what ive read and i see it being mentioned a lot as "normal" operation with this type set up.

 

so after the test run last night i pulled the plugs just now and three out of four plugs are black, sooty and wet looking. i also notice a slight light film of oil on the threads. thefourth is also black, sooty looking and wet but its not as bad. the white center of the plug is still white on the fourth one and all other ones are black on the white center. in other words three are really balck, sooty and wet (fouled) looking and the third one is fouled looking but, not as bad. btw, the entire exhaust system is TOTALLY carboned up with a lot of black soot from running rich for some time, before i owned it. and i dont know if this might be half the black smoke coming out of the exhaust when i chop it and accelrate hard, could it be that alot of that sooty carbon build up in the exhaust system just needs to be blown out by riding? all the intake valves still have a good bit of black crud build up on them, if that matters, i dont know if it does or not.

anyone experiance this exact problem before? what was the fix if so? it has 12 volts at the ignition coil harness on each one and coils all have the same resistance reading so, spark should be good. new air filter, open flapper and htev so, air should be good too. im leaning towards the injectors because, if it was a problem before the injectors somewhere in the fuel system ecu or wires from ecu to injectors) all fouled plugs would be fouled exactly the same instead of three being really fouled and the fourth one being not as bad. any one agree, disagree? just throwing stuff out there. thanks

im checking the fuel injectors now