how was the airbox? was there any puddling of oil in the airbox? the inside will always be somewhat "greasy", but was it more than that?. what do the butterfly valves on the TBs look like? are they really black?


not that i've ever tested a map sensor before, but i would assume you would have shown a code if it was bad. all i know is that it in effect measures the difference in pressure (the vacuum) and what the sensor is calibrated for. what the TB's pull in vacuum - i don't know. so i'm not sure if 5psi is enough or not.

 

airbox is is clean clean, no oil at all. butterflies, tb's and down into the intake on the valves are brownish and have a film of oil. red MIL light stays on and FI light stays on too. since first day i bought it.

 

ok, let me start out with saying that the flapper has been removed and the cable has been left there. and the servo motor continuously runs when the ignition is on, dont know if stays on after it cranked up. i just checked some codes, its all over the place. since im very very new to FI bikes ive never diagnosed a MIL light before. all my bikes have been carb

 

lol, ok, this is getting frustrating. ive read the codes with out hooking all the sensors back up. let me hook em up and read the codes again. told ya im not familiar with the FI bikes yet, lol. brb

 

ok, the codes on the MIL light is....its throwing me a 7,8,9,12,13,14,and 15. hmm, so im seeing its saying i should look at the ECT, TP, and the IAT sensors, along with all four fuel injectors....

anyone?? i havnt a clue. i dont see all these going bad all at the same time though. that doesnt sound right?

 

about to go try and reset the MIL . see if this helps?? brb

 

i am done for now, after working on this bike since 10 AM until now im satisfied i found the main problem. the reason i think its running so rich is because mainly its running with a very restricted air flow. originally i found a HUGE rats nest inside the air box (made entirely of home insulation), the filter even though cleaned is still clogged im sure after it being the original with 28,000 miles and still having insulation particles trapped in it from the rats nest. also the exhaust valve was stuck closed 3/4 of the way shut when i took the header apart. i wired the valve all the way open with some steel wire, so its permanantly open. did away with the cables from the flapper and exhaust valve to the servo motor. the servo motor is no longer running constantly, it shuts off like it supposed to after the ignition is cut on. i was tired of hearing it. i did leave it plugged in though.

...anyone please share your thoughts, thanks


after cleaning the throttle bodies and a couple ground connections and double checking everything i buttoned it back up, put the plugs back in and its waiting for fresh oil and filter tomorrow, then i'll fire it up and see how much better it breaths, im hoping it wont be running as rich, its running free flow compared to what it was before now. i'll keep ya'll informed, thanks again.

by the middle of next week i WILL have this bike back to near mechanical perfection for sure, it will be one of the best running 954's around. along with finishing this up i'll have the new fork seals and fresh fork oil to do next week then im on my way to my touring trip in the smokeys up to deals gap and gatlinburg like i use to do on the f4, for the last two years ive been going up there at least every four to six weeks for a two day tour...im getting the urge to be there, hone my skills even more on this track bike, cant wait to hit the corners on my 954!

 

ok, its up and running better so far. as far as the black poofs of smoke from running rich on hard excelleration and chopping the throttle, on a scale from 1-10, ten being the worst, it was a 8 or 9 before repairs. now its more like a 2 on the good side, if i blip the throttle i can barely notice a very very small poof of black smoke. im still waiting for the new plugs and filter, along with the fork seals next week.

 

ok, so i put new spark plugs, airfilter, fresh oil and filter, tested the iat, map, and tps sensors. they all worked properly. also i sync'ed the throttle bodies.....still blows a ploom of black smoke on high revs??? even though i did notice a slightly smaller amount of smoke come out on lower revs (between 3k-5k). any more ideas, experiance with this, comments?? somebody, anybody. please

btw- codes its throwing are- 1,2,8,9, and 35. the 35 is exspected, its the servo motor, htev and air flapper, which ive removed the flapper, tied the htev on full open with a wire, and taken the servo cables off.

the other codes are saying there are problems with the map, iat, tp and map vaccum hose. thing is that ive checked those parts and they are operating correctly and have the correct voltage from the cdi box??

 

Have you tried to clear all the codes in the ECM and see if they return? Once I got a MIL code for a map sensor problem. I did all the checks and it appeared to be a bad sensor so I got a used one. While waiting for the sensor to arrive I performed the reset procedure to clear all the codes. The code never returned so now I have a spare map sensor if you need one.

SELF-DIAGNOSIS RESET PROCEDURE
1.Turn the engine stop switch to "RUN" and ignition switch to "OFF"
2.Short the service check connector of the PGM-FI system using a jumper wire.
3.Turn the ignition switch to "ON".
4.Remove the jumper wire from the service check
connector.
5.The MIL lights about 5 seconds. While the indicator
lights, short the service check connector again with
the jumper wire.
Self diagnosis memory data is erased if the MIL
turns off and starts blinking.

The service check connector must be jumped while
the indicator lights. If not, the MIL will not start
blinking.
Note that the self diagnosis memory data cannot be
erased if you turn off the ignition switch before the
MIL starts blinking.
If the MIL blinks 20 times, the data has not been
erased, so try again.