You will be fine whit new oem bolts if you are talking about the 10 crankcase bolts which come next to the crank.

 

I'm pretty sure he's talking about head studs.

 

Head has allso bolts, not studs. And never heard that anybody has changed them to studs or had problems whit them. Probably ARP would have studs whit right lenght and thread to replace the oem bolts if you measure the lenght and get them whit right thread and nut. I think they had something for 1000RR listed in the catalog. Should check that whit ARP.

 

I know OEM uses bolts, hence why people with really high compression like to change to studs (or guys running forced induction).

I guess after re-reading some of his prior posts, maybe he thinks OEM uses studs, but I'd take studs over bolts any day of the week. From some posts on pyschobikes (drag bike forum), APE will make them, but you'll probably have to send them the case and head so they can make the correct length studs. APE told the guy to send the head bolts and they'd make them.

If a few of us got together and chipped in, maybe we could do a group buy on some. If I get some money freed up, I'd definitely go in on that. Studs would be much safer with this compression.

And hey, I haven't called yet APE yet for dimensions on those springs, but do you think I'd need to use GSXR retainers with them?

 

Offcourse studs are better I just think there is no need for them. New
GSX-R:S have over 13.0:1 compression stock and they allso uses bolts. 13.5:1 isn't that high compression ratio. I would think that ARP would be better choice then APE. Just need right lenght stud whit right pitch and nut that is same size or bigger then the head of the oem bolt if there is room for bigger nut. And offcourse the right material. I saw some thread at Fireblades where some used right lenght bolts from ARP on the head of older carb Blade.

If i remember correctly they fit the Honda retainers. When you have the od/id of inner and outer springs you will know from measurements will they fit

 

Hey guys, there's a layer of rust in my tank that I would like to get taken care of and then seal the tank. Any recommendations on the best way to go about doing this?

And is there a float or anything inside these tanks that may get damaged by using acid etch or other chemicals to strip the rust out?

 

There's a kit you can buy that knocks loose all of the rust, and then re-lines the tank with a gas proof material.

Be careful though - it comes with some really potent stuff. Wear gloves and "birth-control googles" (safety goggles). This is coming from a guy that almost never wears safety wear.

Northern Factory RW125-8 Motorcycle Fuel Tank Liner Kit | Northern Auto Parts


I used this on a GS500 my wife had. It worked great.

 

Oh wow, any more info on the guy that used studs on his carbed blade?

And I need to proof read. I meant to say that APE wanted you to send them a head and a case, where as ARP (not APE) said to just send them OEM bolts and they'd make some from that.

 

hello fellas, since we're on the subject of rebuilding, i have a 929 that im about to tear down clean up, paint and rebuild, trying to keep my costs minimal since ill be selling it come spring. so far all i have planned is a full tune up replace the radiator and weld open the htev so it can stop rattling. other then that its all cosmetic. anything i should do to the engine besides installing a PC? while i have it off? and where in this forum can i find the proper steps in doing the tear down? ive been looking for hours and cant find it!

 

He used oversize bolts from bolts that ARP lists. Not bolts that are designed specifically for the bike. Don't know how well did they work but a bolt is a bolt. It really dosn't matter what it is made for as long as it is strong enough and right size and you are able to tighten it hard enough whit out braking the casing, head etc.. And nick 900rrHonda said he has ARP studs on hes 900RR on fireblades.org. You should ask him! And found one old sale ad on fireblades.org on a older 900RR motor whit ARP head bolts.