Impeccably Clean, Low Mileage bike wont Run. No Fuel Prime. No Spark.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
Once this puppy is cleaned out and running well. Ill only run VP Race fuel in it. Never have to worry about the stupid tarnish again.
I run a mix of VP and E-0 fuel in my NX so I don't have to worry about this issue.
Fuel lines are cracked and dried out as well. Need to replace those. Any clear ones out there people are using that are decent.?
I run a mix of VP and E-0 fuel in my NX so I don't have to worry about this issue.
Fuel lines are cracked and dried out as well. Need to replace those. Any clear ones out there people are using that are decent.?
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
I havent bothered to looked into any yet for the efi. Love me a CARB any day of the week. would have had this bike running and enjoying already if it were. LOL My NX is laughing at it for now. Till the 150hp starts and runs well. LOL
Appreciate all your help.
Appreciate all your help.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
Ignition All matching
Making progress this is good work!!! 
:wave:
1. put battery on tender/trickle charger, it's slowly dying and may not be sufficient to crank bike AND provide power to ECU.
Path of electricity flow goes like this (see diagram below):
battery 12v -> ignition switch input red wire 12v -> 12v diode 9v -> pink 9v -> ECU
Hmm, your ignition-switch is completely buggered. Not only is your diode reversed with high-voltage on output pink wire, but it's got low-voltage on red input side that also powers fusebox through red/blk wire. Wiring is completely reversed! We might be able to fix by de-pinning terminals in connector, moving them around and re-soldering diode... but...
2. Easier to use unmodified ignition switch from salvage bike you got. Provided it is completely stock and hasn't been modified. Let's take look at bottom of its ignition-switch and do same measurements. Here's what we want to measure:
red ignition-switch input = 12v
blu/org output to fan = 12v
red/blk output to fusebox = 12v
pink output to ECU = 9v
(we must have 9v on pink wire for ECU to work)
3. Let's confirm this by back-probing ignition-switch connector where it plugs into harness.
red = 12v
blu/org = 12v
red/blk = 12v
pink = 9v
:wave:1. put battery on tender/trickle charger, it's slowly dying and may not be sufficient to crank bike AND provide power to ECU.
Path of electricity flow goes like this (see diagram below):
battery 12v -> ignition switch input red wire 12v -> 12v diode 9v -> pink 9v -> ECU
Hmm, your ignition-switch is completely buggered. Not only is your diode reversed with high-voltage on output pink wire, but it's got low-voltage on red input side that also powers fusebox through red/blk wire. Wiring is completely reversed! We might be able to fix by de-pinning terminals in connector, moving them around and re-soldering diode... but...
2. Easier to use unmodified ignition switch from salvage bike you got. Provided it is completely stock and hasn't been modified. Let's take look at bottom of its ignition-switch and do same measurements. Here's what we want to measure:
red ignition-switch input = 12v
blu/org output to fan = 12v
red/blk output to fusebox = 12v
pink output to ECU = 9v
(we must have 9v on pink wire for ECU to work)
3. Let's confirm this by back-probing ignition-switch connector where it plugs into harness.
red = 12v
blu/org = 12v
red/blk = 12v
pink = 9v
took tank and removed the pump and assembly.
What a damn mess.
BUT. Now have fuel prime and pressure.
Still no spark.
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
Ignition All matching
Making progress this is good work!!! :wave:
1. put battery on tender/trickle charger, it's slowly dying and may not be sufficient to crank bike AND provide power to ECU.
Path of electricity flow goes like this (see diagram below):
battery 12v -> ignition switch input red wire 12v -> 12v diode 9v -> pink 9v -> ECU
Hmm, your ignition-switch is completely buggered. Not only is your diode reversed with high-voltage on output pink wire, but it's got low-voltage on red input side that also powers fusebox through red/blk wire. Wiring is completely reversed! We might be able to fix by de-pinning terminals in connector, moving them around and re-soldering diode... but...
2. Easier to use unmodified ignition switch from salvage bike you got. Provided it is completely stock and hasn't been modified. Let's take look at bottom of its ignition-switch and do same measurements. Here's what we want to measure:
red ignition-switch input = 12v
blu/org output to fan = 12v
red/blk output to fusebox = 12v
pink output to ECU = 9v
(we must have 9v on pink wire for ECU to work)
3. Let's confirm this by back-probing ignition-switch connector where it plugs into harness.
red = 12v
blu/org = 12v
red/blk = 12v
pink = 9v
:wave:1. put battery on tender/trickle charger, it's slowly dying and may not be sufficient to crank bike AND provide power to ECU.
Path of electricity flow goes like this (see diagram below):
battery 12v -> ignition switch input red wire 12v -> 12v diode 9v -> pink 9v -> ECU
Hmm, your ignition-switch is completely buggered. Not only is your diode reversed with high-voltage on output pink wire, but it's got low-voltage on red input side that also powers fusebox through red/blk wire. Wiring is completely reversed! We might be able to fix by de-pinning terminals in connector, moving them around and re-soldering diode... but...
2. Easier to use unmodified ignition switch from salvage bike you got. Provided it is completely stock and hasn't been modified. Let's take look at bottom of its ignition-switch and do same measurements. Here's what we want to measure:
red ignition-switch input = 12v
blu/org output to fan = 12v
red/blk output to fusebox = 12v
pink output to ECU = 9v
(we must have 9v on pink wire for ECU to work)
3. Let's confirm this by back-probing ignition-switch connector where it plugs into harness.
red = 12v
blu/org = 12v
red/blk = 12v
pink = 9v
took tank and removed the pump and assembly.
What a damn mess.
BUT. Now have fuel prime and pressure.
Still no spark.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,988
Likes: 439
From: Mesa, AZ
Awesome!!! Fuel-pump prime means both engine-stop & fuel-pump relays are working. So's ECU since it activated pump.
No spark is further downstream. Key ON:
1. disconnect all coil connectors
2. measure voltage at each coil connector, 8 total, volts = ???
No spark is further downstream. Key ON:
1. disconnect all coil connectors
2. measure voltage at each coil connector, 8 total, volts = ???
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
Coil Connectors voltage
Last edited by TLEBEAU75; Apr 24, 2023 at 06:07 AM.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
