On a side Note I almost hold 5k on the highway because I hold 60mph

 

Really, I think you're making too much out of this. ;-)

"Loosest" is really a misnomer. Your valves are *in-spec*. That's really all you need to concentrate on. Being that they are on the outside of spec - means just that...BUT they are still in-spec (allowable range). No damage will occur. Of course, this all assumes that you got the straight truth from your mechanic.

Many F4s go well past 30k b/f needing any valve-adjustment. I've read much feedback from owners reporting this. I know of one F4 that didn't need valve-adjustment til 57k. This is very telling of the strength & continuity of F4s.

You can do your own valve-adjustment maintenance on your own, if you're so inclined. It isn't difficult but is time consuming. Otherwise, you're paying approx $95/per shop hr to have it done. I think the book calls for 2.5 hr for the job.

Regarding your CCT... If ticking is coming from there, its normal until it becomes overbearing, obviously. ;-)

Get out there & ride!

 

Ok so I live in PA so I only got about a month and a half to ride till winter. How much is a good valve adjustment? I mean I am going to have them make all the specs perfect. No " within adjustment". I'll have it done over winter.

 

I had what sounds like (please excuse the pun) a similar noise recently which had developed gradually. Loudest when cold and tended to become more subtle as the bike warmed up. In addition, the noise wasn't noticeable on acceleration or over about 4-5K rpm (my yoshi may have been masking the sound). Lastly, it was most noticeable, very loud and distinct while decelerating from about 4-5K rpm and below. To me it sounded like I had a loose washer or nut sitting on the engine and it was vibrating. I checked everything for tightness, checked for an exhaust leak, I checked......with no success. The one thing I did not check was my manual cct because the noise quality was very different from what I heard when the oe tensioner failed. I was also told that with only about 5K miles on since the manual cct install, it shouldn't need adjusting. Well, as a last resort I tried increasing the tensioner engagement and the noise disappeared. My bike is now rattle/buzz free and I can ride without distraction.

 

Not saying you need to replace this, because I have never heard of someone needing it, but when I was removing my pair valve and emissions system I installed Block Off Plates which were not manufactured correctly. The plates were touching the screw that was holding the reed valve in; the resulting sound when the bike was running was very close to that but was louder than your video is picking up. It might just might be your reed valves but its really a shot in the dark. Actually get a long piece of tubing and stick one end into your ear and use the other to probe around the engine for the noise, that will tell you exactly where it is and we can further diagnose the issue.

When you had the exhaust system checked did they replace the gaskets? or just tighten the nuts cuz it might be that the gaskets are sealing and as they warm up everything else is expanding causing an exhaust leak. But if we arnt finding anything, your mechanic isnt finding anything and you arnt finding anything than there just might be nothing. You just need to love the bike and all the weird noise that come along with it

I do agree with gotcbr and demon that getting your valves done is a waste of money honda wrote those specs conservatively on top of that they built a near indestructible engine. Also you may be hurting the bike by not getting into the higher revs, on many different levels. The Redline for this bike is in the 14k's and your keeping it 10k rpms below that. how do you expect the oil or any number of parts of the engine to come to temp. This is a high performance, high revving engine that was designed to be shifted in the 8k - 11k rpm range. Treat the bike well by maintaining it and following its service intervals religiously and you will find it will take well into the 100k mi or even like one member here past 200k mi, as far as I know hes working on making it to 300k mi.

 

Thank you for the input. I'll deff have to check that out. Would t that noise bother you? I mean that noise means something in the engine is rubbing and causing unneeded and excessive wear.

 

There are noises that are wrong and arnt supposed to be there and there are some noises that come with the engine, the hard part is finding out which one is which. I say try out the tubing our if you wanna be super professional get a mechanics stethoscope, but the tubing will do the exact same thing just as well. Probe around your engine, its pretty fun to hear all the different noises, and when you find the noise let us know where it is.

 

i wouldnt worry to much about it, i have a 97 cbr, its got 40k on it, valves just ajusted 1k ago, i run amsoil 10w40, and i also use 6oz of torco Zinc at each oil change, and from what i can tell, the ticking is about half since i put in torco zinc, its still there if its really really cold morning, but not as loud as it was when i was using Mobil 1 with no aditive, OH and i have NO cluch slipage NONE with the zinc, hope that helps,

 

Frankly, it would be a waste of money to do that. Just ride it til the next valve check.

It would be hundred(s) spent for no good reason.