Friction Zone
#11
Glad your clutch cable issue is better. Not sure how you went about adjusting it, but you may get more friction zone by grabbing the cable with needle nose pliers and working your way to a tighter cable.
I don't mess with the adjustment up top since my F3 has a set of aftermarket levers (forget the name, bike is in pieces and the handlebar instruments and whatnot are in the garage) that let me simply pull the lever out/forwards and adjust a roller/clicker. 6 different individual settings for both brake and clutch. I can change the friction zone from 90% of the lever travel distance (levers are farthest out at this point) to 5-10% (levers are closest to the grips). Really nice being able to change the riding style within 2 seconds. I change them on the highway sometimes when I suddenly feel sporadic and want to change gears in an aggressive way. Having control of how "hard" or "spongy" your brakes are is very nice as well.
I once grabbed a bit too much front brake when avoiding some cager who squeezed (and I mean really squeezed herself) between me and the car ahead of me. Didn't check her side view, I was watching her. I was prepared to brake but totally forgot that I had left my brakes on stiff. When they're set on stiff/hard...man...it feels like night and day when comparing it to riding with the softer settings. Not sure if you've had the chance to drive an Audi, but my folks 05 A4 has an INSANE amount of braking power. Granted it has some technologies that my camry doesn't have...but still. You can seriously feel the difference. Well that's what it's like with the brake adjustments on my F3. Can be made into a leisurely driver or a very responsive beast. Steel braided brake lines help too Food for thought. 50-80 dollar investment for the levers (fleabay; I've seen people linking them before) to make your bike that much more responsive to the inputs you give it. In my books: totally worth it.
While not recommended...when you've got 5-10% friction zone...it's REALLY easy (read: FUN) to do a clutchless shift. *cough* I mean...look it's a fast cat!
I don't mess with the adjustment up top since my F3 has a set of aftermarket levers (forget the name, bike is in pieces and the handlebar instruments and whatnot are in the garage) that let me simply pull the lever out/forwards and adjust a roller/clicker. 6 different individual settings for both brake and clutch. I can change the friction zone from 90% of the lever travel distance (levers are farthest out at this point) to 5-10% (levers are closest to the grips). Really nice being able to change the riding style within 2 seconds. I change them on the highway sometimes when I suddenly feel sporadic and want to change gears in an aggressive way. Having control of how "hard" or "spongy" your brakes are is very nice as well.
I once grabbed a bit too much front brake when avoiding some cager who squeezed (and I mean really squeezed herself) between me and the car ahead of me. Didn't check her side view, I was watching her. I was prepared to brake but totally forgot that I had left my brakes on stiff. When they're set on stiff/hard...man...it feels like night and day when comparing it to riding with the softer settings. Not sure if you've had the chance to drive an Audi, but my folks 05 A4 has an INSANE amount of braking power. Granted it has some technologies that my camry doesn't have...but still. You can seriously feel the difference. Well that's what it's like with the brake adjustments on my F3. Can be made into a leisurely driver or a very responsive beast. Steel braided brake lines help too Food for thought. 50-80 dollar investment for the levers (fleabay; I've seen people linking them before) to make your bike that much more responsive to the inputs you give it. In my books: totally worth it.
While not recommended...when you've got 5-10% friction zone...it's REALLY easy (read: FUN) to do a clutchless shift. *cough* I mean...look it's a fast cat!
#12
I've searched this topic an couldn't seem to find anything useful so her it goes:
I ride a 99 F4, 30k miles (closer to 31k), and she's an absolute beauty. She could use a little TLC but that comes with time
Now to the subject of this thread, my friction zone is very small, which makes starting from stand still very difficult, a task made all the more difficult by the fact that I'm a beginner rider. I hate stopping for this reason, as if stopping on a motorcycle needed to be any less fun lol. I stall quite frequently as a result of this tiny friction zone.
Basically I've tried adjusting my clutch cable to no avail, and was wondering if there's some other way to adjust friction zone. I want it bigger, so that clutch begins to engage at about 50% of release on the lever and fully engages on complete let go (obviously). I'll settle for smaller then that anything would be an improvement really.
As is the friction zone begins at about 97% of clutch lever release, leaving me very little room to get the bike rolling before opening up the throttle, so no power walks :/. This dilemma also makes balancing lever release and throttle application a P.I.T.A. lol
Any advice is much appreciated, TIA to all those willing to read and reply.
Blessings, ride safe!
I ride a 99 F4, 30k miles (closer to 31k), and she's an absolute beauty. She could use a little TLC but that comes with time
Now to the subject of this thread, my friction zone is very small, which makes starting from stand still very difficult, a task made all the more difficult by the fact that I'm a beginner rider. I hate stopping for this reason, as if stopping on a motorcycle needed to be any less fun lol. I stall quite frequently as a result of this tiny friction zone.
Basically I've tried adjusting my clutch cable to no avail, and was wondering if there's some other way to adjust friction zone. I want it bigger, so that clutch begins to engage at about 50% of release on the lever and fully engages on complete let go (obviously). I'll settle for smaller then that anything would be an improvement really.
As is the friction zone begins at about 97% of clutch lever release, leaving me very little room to get the bike rolling before opening up the throttle, so no power walks :/. This dilemma also makes balancing lever release and throttle application a P.I.T.A. lol
Any advice is much appreciated, TIA to all those willing to read and reply.
Blessings, ride safe!
Last edited by Smerkey; 05-25-2021 at 03:32 PM.
#13
Folks, there is no "Adjustment" for how big the friction zone is, or how much the clutch lever has to move to go between fully engaged to fully disengaged. You can change the location of where that zone is located within the range of lever movement. You can make it be closer to fully pulled in, or closer to fully released. How large the zone is, is based on the particular bike and makeup of the clutch springs and plates.
Having the zone be located closer to fully pulled in is going to allow you to have finer control over smaller movements of your fingers as you release the lever than if your fingers are close to full extension as it's engaging.
Having the zone be located closer to fully pulled in is going to allow you to have finer control over smaller movements of your fingers as you release the lever than if your fingers are close to full extension as it's engaging.
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