Engine stutter 1st gear take off problem
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 29
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I will do. I'm expecting the new r/r to be delivered by the end of the week and I'll try that first. If that doesn't work, I plan on replacing all lighting with LEDs to take some of the load off. And If that doesn't work, for testing purposes, I'll disconnect the headlight to see what happens. If I'm still having problems a capacitor or soft start fan controller will be on the to do list.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 29
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I just installed my new r/r from regulatorrectifier.com and my baby runs like a new bike.
Regulator Rectifier CBR600F3 Honda 31600-MV4-010 31600-KBG-008 31600-MV4-000 316
I removed the old r/r and noticed that the new one didn't sit flush on the flat plate (due to the welds sitting a little higher and the heat sink being larger) so I used a dremel tool to slightly grind the welds down flat on the edge of the plate. Next, I lightly sanded the base of the new r/r to ensure a clean true fit. I applied some thermal compound, bolted it up, plugged it in, started the bike, and let it idle until it reached operating temperature. At 1400 rpm I was getting 14.5v with all of lights on and no fan. Then I took it for a nice little cruise in stop and go traffic trying to recreate the sputter that always starts when the fan begins to cycle. Once the fan began to cycle I put the bike in neutral and let it idle for another 5-10 minutes and the voltage was steady at 12.7v with everything on ( blinker, high beam, brake lights, and fan). I killed the bike, rechecked the battery voltage, and it was reading 13.2v. Now for the first time since I bought this bike, I was able to take off just by easing the clutch out and not giving it any throttle whatsoever. I'm so happy that this sputter is gone as i was really bummed out. Now I just need to clean the carbs and get them sync'ed. Hopefully, it continues to work this well.
Regulator Rectifier CBR600F3 Honda 31600-MV4-010 31600-KBG-008 31600-MV4-000 316
I removed the old r/r and noticed that the new one didn't sit flush on the flat plate (due to the welds sitting a little higher and the heat sink being larger) so I used a dremel tool to slightly grind the welds down flat on the edge of the plate. Next, I lightly sanded the base of the new r/r to ensure a clean true fit. I applied some thermal compound, bolted it up, plugged it in, started the bike, and let it idle until it reached operating temperature. At 1400 rpm I was getting 14.5v with all of lights on and no fan. Then I took it for a nice little cruise in stop and go traffic trying to recreate the sputter that always starts when the fan begins to cycle. Once the fan began to cycle I put the bike in neutral and let it idle for another 5-10 minutes and the voltage was steady at 12.7v with everything on ( blinker, high beam, brake lights, and fan). I killed the bike, rechecked the battery voltage, and it was reading 13.2v. Now for the first time since I bought this bike, I was able to take off just by easing the clutch out and not giving it any throttle whatsoever. I'm so happy that this sputter is gone as i was really bummed out. Now I just need to clean the carbs and get them sync'ed. Hopefully, it continues to work this well.
Registered Users
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 2
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Mosfet will solve stutter during fanning
Old post but....I had the same fan initiated stutter and all I did was replace the r/r with one from a 07 600rr (it's a MOSFET) and haven't had that problem since but now I am having a stutter in parking lots and at low rpm. I'm thinking punched fuel line or carb rebuild time.
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