I've got some money to burn, and while browsing around on Motosport for the parts I'll be needing, two things caught my eye.

The first and most important is the chain and sprocket kit. I'm running a 2000 CBR600F4, and want to use a larger rear sprocket for more low end pull. The kit I'm looking at getting is here. Should I get the 15T front and 45T rear for the best effect? Also, is there any real difference between the different chain options listed?

On a less important note, I also saw a Barnett Clutch Kit for what seems to be a decent price. Right now I have the OEM clutch in with no real issues. Would that kit be any improvement over the OEM for street riding, or is it meant more to be a cheaper-than-OEM replacement?

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

I got the 15-45T by driven. I can't remember where I read this at but I'll quote it. " What do you see yourself doing on a daily bases ? pushing your speedometer needle passed 160 or needing faster acceleration?"

personally I picked the second one.. My bike is a daily driver so I have no reason to have a high top end speed. If you can sacrifice some top end for low end like me I would go for it.

Idk about the clutch though sorry I still have stock cl

 

I went with a 15T up front and a 47T on the rear. Like the man said above this will pull you off the line quicker. I don't ride 150mph all the time but I do like having more torque to take off with. Is the barnett clutch the kevlar one? Those are good replacements but the thing to keep in mind is that when you have a Honda clutch that is made of steel if something happens you may be able to limp home because the parts are made of steel. If you have a kevlar clutch... once that goes you're **** out of luck. Thats why the kevlar clutches are so much cheaper than the steel.

Back to the sprocket. I travel highways on my bike all the time and the 15 / 47 gives me more low end and no problems traveling. The higher the rear the more strain you put on the engine. Stunters use 54T and above because of the torque but it puts the engine through alot when you're on the highway with your rpms jacked.

 

Chain size doesn't matter to much if you're not racing. Standard on the F4 is a 525 chain but a lot of people do the 520 conversion. Like I said not really necessary if you're just running the streets.

 

I went with a 520 conversion and 15/45 ratio and I love it. Gives the bike the perfect amount of torque for street riding, and it still leaves the speedometer fairly close. I would definitely recommend it.

 

If you are going to replace your drive/driven sprockets and chain all at once (Recommended for life-span) You should defiantly go with the 520 conversion. Weight reduction is the major reason to do so and because it's your chain the effects of the reduction are amplified. There is no good reason to not do the conversion.

This gearing calculator can give you some advice for making the change, care of Bently600.

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

I personally run a 15/47 on my F4 with a speedo healer (recommended)
My top speed in the wind is 220Kph and on a Dyno 240Kph. More than enough for my kind of twisty road riding, and it makes the bike way more fun to commute on. Oh and 60K-130K happens much much faster than with stock gearing; wicked fun.

With the clutch kit, yes, they are replacement parts. The only reason people put racing style clutch kits on there bike is to be technicool. Most of the time the heaver pull on the lever due to the beefy springs causes wrist pain when commuting. Until your pads and plates are actually beyond spec there's no need to touch them. Now if your springs are a bit saggy (35k+) replacing them with a barnett street spring set is a cheap way to extend the life of the pads and plates.