Where is the sending unit/sensor that controls the tach
#1
#4
Well, here's what you need to do...
Download the shop manual from StephyGee.com's website.
Open the manual to chapter 18, page 9 and perform the following test.
You'll need a meter that is able to capture PEAK voltages because the signal is very fast and pulsing. A standard meter won't suffice, nor will a circuit testor.
On the back of the gauge cluster is a test point. It should be labeled yellow/green. That is the input signal to the Tachometer from the ICM.
With the engine running....
If you read greater than 10.5 vdc, replace the tach.
If you read less than 10.5 vdc, but not 0 vdc, then replace the ICM.
If you read 0 vcd, then check continuity between this test point and the yellow/green wire on the connector of the ICM. You'd be checking for an open condition or broken wire.
In my opinion, your dealer was just trying to get you out of the door since you weren't paying him for anything. But that's just an opinion.
Download the shop manual from StephyGee.com's website.
Open the manual to chapter 18, page 9 and perform the following test.
You'll need a meter that is able to capture PEAK voltages because the signal is very fast and pulsing. A standard meter won't suffice, nor will a circuit testor.
On the back of the gauge cluster is a test point. It should be labeled yellow/green. That is the input signal to the Tachometer from the ICM.
With the engine running....
If you read greater than 10.5 vdc, replace the tach.
If you read less than 10.5 vdc, but not 0 vdc, then replace the ICM.
If you read 0 vcd, then check continuity between this test point and the yellow/green wire on the connector of the ICM. You'd be checking for an open condition or broken wire.
In my opinion, your dealer was just trying to get you out of the door since you weren't paying him for anything. But that's just an opinion.
#5
Well, here's what you need to do...
Download the shop manual from StephyGee.com's website.
Open the manual to chapter 18, page 9 and perform the following test.
You'll need a meter that is able to capture PEAK voltages because the signal is very fast and pulsing. A standard meter won't suffice, nor will a circuit testor.
On the back of the gauge cluster is a test point. It should be labeled yellow/green. That is the input signal to the Tachometer from the ICM.
With the engine running....
If you read greater than 10.5 vdc, replace the tach.
If you read less than 10.5 vdc, but not 0 vdc, then replace the ICM.
If you read 0 vcd, then check continuity between this test point and the yellow/green wire on the connector of the ICM. You'd be checking for an open condition or broken wire.
In my opinion, your dealer was just trying to get you out of the door since you weren't paying him for anything. But that's just an opinion.
Download the shop manual from StephyGee.com's website.
Open the manual to chapter 18, page 9 and perform the following test.
You'll need a meter that is able to capture PEAK voltages because the signal is very fast and pulsing. A standard meter won't suffice, nor will a circuit testor.
On the back of the gauge cluster is a test point. It should be labeled yellow/green. That is the input signal to the Tachometer from the ICM.
With the engine running....
If you read greater than 10.5 vdc, replace the tach.
If you read less than 10.5 vdc, but not 0 vdc, then replace the ICM.
If you read 0 vcd, then check continuity between this test point and the yellow/green wire on the connector of the ICM. You'd be checking for an open condition or broken wire.
In my opinion, your dealer was just trying to get you out of the door since you weren't paying him for anything. But that's just an opinion.
I'm gonna save this thread, very helpful info, thanks!
The following users liked this post:
ez302 (06-15-2024)
#6
Its all good...
#7
If your words of wisdom are pushing for F3 Manual > Playboy... imma have to think about it. You pose a great point, and well noted sir, but the bathroom material... well that's just another story.
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