Hey guys back again. I just rebuilt my 95 f3 carbs with an allballs kit. Put the pilot screws at 2.5 out. Bench synced the carbs. Replaced pilot jets, main jets, pilot screws, float valves, pilot needles, and all the orings/washers. Cleaned everything out with cleaner and blew compressed air thru everything multiple times. Checked the diaphragms and they're still good. Got the carbs back on the bike without the air box or tank on (using an auxiliary fuel tank). Tried to start it and it just cranks and backfires loud as hell out of the exhaust. I primed the bowls by bypassing the fuel relay to make sure they were full after trying to start it a couple times. Still no start. Checked my coil wiring. Got blue/yellow and black/white on left. Black/white and yellow/blue on the right looking from the back of the bike. Plugs wires 1/4 on the right. 2/3 on the left. Connected to the plugs reading 1,2,3,4 looking from back of the bike. I've recently done the valve adjustment too. Was going to pull the plugs tomorrow and replace them get the battery tested but its been on a trickle charger and is less than a year old. Going to run a compression test while I'm at it. Looked at the rectifier and it doesn't seem burnt. Bowls are getting fuel. Any other ideas?

I did the valve adjustment and rebuilt the carbs because it always had a starting issue. Would never start with the choke on. Always had to turn choke off and roll the throttle some to get it started. If not it would just crank and backfire like it is now. I'm almost ready to take it to a shop. Any advice would help.

Thanks in advance to anyone that helps, this bike it driving me insane.

 

Well, the basic function of a choke is to close up the air intake to create some extra vacuum to suck out more fuel from the carburator.
The throttle opens up the air intake and doe not increase the suction power with extra vacuum. The airflow does.
So, if in the past you could start it only because you opened up throttle, it might very well be running too rich already.
Popping in the exhaust is normal if you have 2-spark coils and unburnt air fuel mixture. Which means that the coil will spark at the combustion stroke, but also at the outlet stroke.
Maybe it is worth trying going from 2,5 turns back to 2 and see what happens.

let us know (not to confuse with lettuce)

 

Got around to messing with it. Pulled the plugs and they were wrong by one number. So I replaced them with the correct ones and checked the gap. It started then wouldn't start again. So I decided to try and swap the Vance and Hines cdi for a stock one I had. Boom fired right up. Choke works etc.

Now I went through and synced the carbs but haven't messed with the pilot screw. I have an aftermarket tach that when reading at 1200/1300 the bike sounds as if it wants to die.. at 1500 it idles smooth. If I kill the bike after warming up to start it again I have to roll the throttle a little bit while turning over. Not a big deal unless there's a way to fix it. Like I said I have the pilot screws at 2.5 out. Do I really need to buy all the tools to adjust those according to the manual or just leave them at 2.5? Not sure if that will help with the idle at 1200 and starting once warmed. Thanks in advance

 

I would consider an in between step:
Measuring the temperature of the exhaust pipes.
That says a lot about the combustion that took place.
A leaner burn should be hotter.
A rich burn should be cooler, however if it is very very rich it m9ight turn a lot hotter again.

Therefore if you want to do it right you at least buy 4 clocks that measure the pressure in the carburators.
You can also just ask around if someone has those things...