I'm a new rider and stalled the bike two times.

The first time, I had it running for about 10 minutes and then went into gear on accident without touching the clutch. For some reason I couldn't start the bike after, the battery was dead. I charged the battery after that. Tonight, I got the nerve to drive it down the road and back. It was going great... Eventually I shifted tried going into second gear. The first time it worked, the second time I missed it and went to neutral but stalled... I'm still not sure how I stalled. Anyways, now the battery is dead again.

My question is...

Is the battery just crap or could there be something else wrong like with the alternator? I noticed when I rev the bike the headlight gets brighter so I think the alternator is working. If I do need to replace the battery, would anyone recommend an online store where I could get a sealed battery? I don't want to get an unsealed acid battery and thats all they have in the stores for some reason.

 

I don't want to appear negative but have you checked the forum for this problem??
there are loads of posts for this just check and you'll find them.
I've posted loads from battery check to full charging system checks
hope you find what your looking for.
if you don't let me know

 

Don't panic just yet, Batteries have certain life, some last for ever, some crap out under twelve months even from the same manufacturer.
So lets deal with that 1st, check your local Yellow pages, or whatever your local business directory is called, look up Automotive & Marine Batteries (or whatever in case you 10,000 from the water) and give em call (most of these places have the sealed type), quoting the type of battery your after, they will probably have the original in stock, but they will have alternatives if your worried about the cost, rule of thumb, half the price, half the life. Don't buy from Motorcycle shops, they sell for a lot more than the other guys. Next, wot have you used to charge up the battery, bike batteries don't take kindly to car charges (this can ruin a battery straight away) and have to use a low amp trickle charge. You seem to be cluey enough to realise that if your lights get stronger when you rev it that it's probably not the reg, 95% your right, but wot happens is that a regulator on the way out does all the right things, but still won't charge your battery. On the CBR's the buggers overheat, which slowly kills em. their like batteries, some live for ever and others don't.
When mine died, I just finished a two day 1000 kay run, bike went great, but the battery was dead the next day, and because the battery was 8 years old, got to be the battery right? Wrong, regulator.

Wot I'm trying to say here is, have your bike checked out 1st, it's a 10 minute job, 5 if you take the side cover of yourself.
When you ring the battery place, ask em if they are able to do a check on your reg for you, or alternatively, the closest bike shop.
A new regulator is a bit pricey, (but it won't kill you) but it's cheaper than a new reg plus battery.
Good luck with your riding, hang in there

 

The regulator regulates the charge going into your battery thats why it's called a reg'
it can cause too much charge as well as too little
too much being the worse your battery will fry and even blow up in extreme cases
so don't be fooled into thinking it's duff if the bike is not charging

OUTPUT TEST
connect multi meter set to 0-20 volts across battery
Start engine allow to idle
slowly increase RPM to 5000
Volts should read 13v - 15.5v anything higher is definatly a rectifier/ regulator fault

LEAKAGE TEST
switch Ignition off
Disconnect negative wire from battery -
Connect multimeter set to mA (milli Amps) Between battery Neg - terminal & cable
the reading should not exceed 1.2mA DO NOT START THE ENGINE!!!!!!!!!!!
if the reading is below 1.2mA leakage rate is satisfactory.
Anything higher it's likely there's a short circuit in the wiring somewhere

when i get some more time i'll post the check for the
ALTERNATOR STATOR COILS
and
REGULATOR / RECTIFIER UNIT

 

Thanks guys. I did do some more searching last night and found alot of other information. Sorry for the repost but this thread seems to cut through a lot of the BS so if someone else has the problem, They can follow the steps above to help determine it. I plan on running through the output and leakage test today. I believe the battery is the original battery too so I placed an order with Honda for a new battery. However, I will still test the old one. Thank You again.

 

ITS YOUR REGULATOR RECTIFIER MINE DID THE SAME THING HONDA SELLS THEM FOR 150 THEY HAVE AND ALL METAL SKIN NOW SO THEY WONT POP LIKE THE OLD ONE I WOULD TAKE THE REGULATOR AND HAVE IT TESTED MY BIKE DIED AND IT WAS THAT EXCEPT I WAS ABOUT 2 HOURS FROM HOME