I agree with Idodirt. My bike was running the same way. I pulled the fuel pump off and my contacts were really crappy. I ordered the new part from cyclegear for 37 bucks and now it runs like a champ. I'm sure you could file down the contacts to clean them off a bit and see if that helps at all.
I'm no mechanic but like I said I was having the same problem as you. Did you try bypassing the fuel pump altogether?

 

Drewsive, what u got done to that slammed F3?? Sorry to threadjack

 

seems like we are getting a lot of these here on the forum in the past few months. its your fuel cut off relay thats going bad. when its bad it wont have the fuel pump... pump. read below topic for solution..

https://cbrforum.com/forum/showpost....59&postcount=4

 

ok so here goes:

it seems like there's some kind of charge issue...

i jumped the battery off with a tender, and left the cables on....ran fine, ran through all gears fine. sounded like nothing was wrong with it in the first place.

i took the cables off and let it idle for about 20 minutes. after about 20 minutes, it cut off, and i had to turn the choke back on for it to start -- cranked immediately.

idled and revved fine for a few turns, but then would jump at 5k rpms - studder - then rock on to 11k.

it eventually got worse, and sounded like 3 cylinders again.

i put the cables back on, and the battery read 20%. it jumped off immediately and had no problems.

i can only assume that this brand new battery (literally a day old) did not get the full charge it needed, or something is draining the battery out (maybe the fuel pump?)

I really appreciate all the help and lead-way from you guys!

 

I had some problems recently, bike was running perfect then one day i went to start it and all the ignition lights and everything just turned off, like the battery was disconnected, funny enough the battery was showing 12.8v though, then i checked under load and the battery voltage dropped to something like 0.4v, really unusual, so i replaced the battery and its all fine now!

When you installed your new battery Drewsive did you follow the procedures when filling the acid into the cells of the battery and leaving it for 30mins then charging before, rather then just putting the battery straight in?

 

On our bikes, the battery will discharges as you idle. There isn't a charge going into the battery till around 2K RPM. Charge the battery completely and measure the voltage. You should have something in there area of 12.5v. Start the bike up and measure the voltage and measure again at just an idle, it should read battery voltage. This will be something less than 12.5v, but more than 12v. Rev the bike up slowly so that you can see the progression of the charge. Look for the RPM when the voltage is greater than the battery voltage. At 5K RPM, you see the charge going into the bike somewhere in the area of 13.5v to 15v. If you are not getting this, than there is an issue with you're charging system. There is a page around here somewhere on how to diagnose this... going to take me a few minutes to find where it went. Even if everything checks out, check the plug of your R/R and stator. These connectors usually burn up causing resistance which leads to the R/R burning out prematurely and possibly taking the stator with it.

 

You've got to understand something here. Your bike is not charging the battery while it's idling. 20 minutes of idling and the headlight being on is just running the battery down. If you want to see how it runs, then ride around the block for 20 minutes in 2nd or 3rd gear. Keeping the RPM's up above about 3k. There's nothing wrong with your battery, you just can't keep doing what you're doing.

 

If I were you, I'd be checking the contacts on the fuel pump as Dirt suggested. Seems to be a common weakness on our bike and it's very simple to check..

 

Have you checked the rectifier? It may not be letting the battery get a charge.