Hey guys, I just got myself a CBR f3 today and I love it so far, such a step up from what i have been riding in my opinion. (hyosung gt250r) Anyways so I am riding around the block getting a feel for my bike when it just shuts itself off. I pull over, turn the key off wait a second, then turn the bike back on again and continue on until it turns itself off again.

This happened twice on the ride home maybe 100 yards away from each other and I have no idea what is causing it.

I have a busted gas cap so I am using a rag to cover the holes from the screws so that I dont get splashed with gas. There is another hole where the gas cap is and I think its for the carbs. Could I be clogging it with the rag? idk, someone help me out please.

Thanks alot.

 

Check the r/r and connector for heat damage. Thia is a common issue with the hondas.
the other hole in the depressed ring around the gas cap is for spilled fuel/rain, it goes to a hose under the tank that lets it drain to the ground.

Ern

 

Yep check the Regulator/Rectifier. Very common problem with these bikes. I have an F2 and luckily I have an aftermarket R/R with a fan to keep it cool. Bike looks ugly run sure does run. Some times I can't even keep up with it. lol Good luck and let us know what you come up with.

Check this out if you haven't already.

https://cbrforum.com/forum/f2-tech-9...-solved-27739/

 

I too had to replace the R/R on my 97 600F3, A guy at a shop said, that cheap batteries are a cause of premature R/R burn-out.....Who knows??? I'm running one from O'rileys on a new R/R. I guess time will tell....for now my baby is acting very reliable

 

Alright I'll see what I can do with it thanks for the help guys

 

R/R failure has nothing to do with batteries, cheap or other-wise...

The reason that the r/r's tend to fail is heat-related. Honda engineered the original
part, to use the frame of the bike as a heat-sink. This proved to be a poor solution.
Especially, with the original, in-efficent design of the electronics. Which guarenteed
a high heat output, as a result of doing it's job. They persisted with the design for
over a decade, making this a common, well-documented failure.

Eventually they re-designed with a more efficent, MOSFET-style circuit and added an
external heat-sink with radiator fins. If you have one of the later, you should be fine.

If the r/r has a plain, smooth epoxy-fill w/o the heat-sink, you are looking at a
potential failure. Probable failure, in my opinion. To avoid reliability issues
and potential stranding, I would highly recommend replacement. Whether it is displaying
symptoms or not. If you choose to delay replacement, due diligence is in order.
Keep a close watch on the r/r and it's connector, replace at the first sign of heat stress/damage.

Hope this helps, Ern

 

i had my kickstand cutoff switch go bad causing it to cut out all the time for no reason or if i hit a bump its an easy fix and theres a thread of mine that has the fix thanks to smithers (y)

https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f3...sensor-123515/

there you go man smithers put diagrams for me to test and an explanation to loop the cut off so it doesnt cut out the engine anymore, its no good if you put it in first by accident but at least it will run good

have fun and stay safe!

 

It could also be the carbs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My old Cbr600 F3 would ride for about a block than shut off on me Biggest pain ever.

But than you let it warm up for a (not normal amount of time) 10-20 minutes and it'll ride for hours until you let it sit again. I hate carbs cause of this but fuel injection dosen't have a motorcycle feel or atleast not to me.

don't get me wrong R/R could be the case that was just my situation