ok so i thought my bike wasnt running well due to paint in system rode it around a bit and it stopped it and only acted like it wasnt getting fuel every now and then. so took it to be rolling road for insurance fine getting there but ded battery when i got there (only couple day old as well) so bumped onto dyno and was fine guy hammered it on the dyno not happy then it was all running out of fuel again and died on my way home only like 20 miles as well. so got home and the bike started to run ok again then 30 mins later wouldnt start to get me to work grrr. so got oxford charger and stuck bettery on that and now it runs but poorly. so that is why i think reg/rec.

but only starts in neutral and alot of the time when put in gear when started it will cut out, when kick stand is down there is no orange light. and the fix to the problem seems to be to turn the bike on and off and put the cick stand down the n up.

so is it both ?
can i get rid of the kick stand sensor?
i got a new reg/rec like last may and it was one with fins but bike got dumped into a hedge could this have broke it?

ahh its so problematic going to stick oxford charger on it and see what battery is like and ill stick me volt meter on it see what its like

 

just done the tests battery puts out 12.5/6 volts and stays till bout 3k rpm then hits 12.7 V then stays at that all the way to 8k rpm (restricted remember)

oh and the yellow wires off the reg/rec testing 1+2 = 0.05 testing 2+3 = 0.05/0.06 (it switches between the two slightly) and with engine off it reads 0.00

just touched reg/rec and its HOT it was like touching a radiator on 5th setting and the engine only managed to heat up to bout quarter way on the temp guage that is with the engine off so not even that really (coolant not flowing is what i mean)

gunna stick me oxford on and do a test on the clutch wires see if they are doing what they should.
anyone know of a test to see if the side stand is doing what it should (apart from iluminating a bulb)

stuck oxrford on and its saying battery is putting out 13.3 V and 0.83 A

 

Hmmm bit of a strange one, when my regulator went it wouldn't start but when running was fine - they can cause some strange problems though.

Heres a few pages that will help you test you sensors

 

found the problem it was that i had my clutch on lowest setting and it wasn't coming in enough to make the continuity so changing it back to my silver one until i get a set of black NON adjustable ones or a set of expensive adjustable ones serves me right for buying cheap
this thread will hopefully teach anyone who reads it don't get cheap levers

 

could anyone with working clutch switch tell me looking from the left hand side of bike standing behind the bars which wire goes were i pulled em out n not sure if i put em back in correctly. the one furthest away is solid black and the closest is black/white.

is that correct?
also can i use copper grease on my kick stand switch terminal to increase the conductivity between them? if you understand me.

**EDIT**

ok so did the check on the side stand switch and the down position test works every time, but the up position test is intermittent meaning that without moving the rods from the tester moving it down then up a few times there was no continuity when the kick stand was up if the kickstand bolt is loose could this cause the problem? but put the stand down then back up and repeat a few times of necessary and there is continuity!

think my centre stand is gunna be getting alot more action for a while

 

For a switch that has only 2 connectors, it doesn't make any difference what wire you put where, it will work both ways. That switch can be removed from the handle and taken apart and cleaned. The copper contacts inside get covered with patina, kinda like the Statue of Liberty and it doesn't work so well like that. A little Scotch-Brite pad to scuff them up works wonders.

 

thanks so much for this it helped me check all the wires and found that the clutch wasnt working and that the side stand is tempremental oh and my RR lol.