The Mr. Gasket one is an aftermarket one. Im just asking what psi I need.

The Airtex one isnt in stock anywhere by me.

 

So I put the fuel pump on and ran it for awhile. Worked great so I took it for a ride and it died on me. Since I have been having a lot of fuel problems I just thought that thats what it was... So after I put gas in it it ran fine... yeah I know :P

Then I stop at the store and when I come out it will turn over but wont start. So I try to snap the throttle a little while starting and still nothing. So I let it sit for awhile and then try again. If I dont touch the throttle then it will turn over but wont start. I turned the throttle maybe 1/10 and it started up. Then died when I let off. So I messed with the idle **** and it eventually ran great. I was afraid it would die so I left the idle screw at about 2k and noticed that on the way home at lights as I slowed down it would slowly decrease the idle rpms. By the time I got home it was at about 1.5k.

So my question is...
Because this fuel pump doesnt pulse like the oem(it is a steady 4-7 psi) is it flooding?
Is 4-7psi too much?
Any ideas would be great!

 

UPDATE:
I was bored today and the old fuel pump was sitting there so I decided to test it. Hard wired it right to the battery and had fuel running through it fine. So I guess its not the fuel pump. Hooked it up on the bike and it wouldnt turn off. I would start the bike and the fuel pump wouldnt pulse it would just *tick tick tick tick tick* over and over. So I decided to test the relay. Took it off the bike and noticed when I did that the clip was loose. So before I tested it I plugged it back in and started the bike...

OMG!!! It started right up and the pump stopped. Then *tick*... *tick*... *tick*... YAY!!!!

So I put the fairing and seat back on and decide to take it for a ride. Go in and get my jacket and helmet and go out... Wont start!!!

It turns over but wont start... so what now?!

 

when mine did this it was a bad rectifier/regulator, check that. or it could be the battery is near the end. and check all connections to and from stator, rec/reg and battery.

 

check all connections to and from stator, rectifier/regulator and battery. sometimes loose connections and corrosion will cause this. after that check individually the stator, r/r, and batt to make sure all are working. thats what my bike did and it was a bad r/r and batt plus corrosion inside connection points.

 

Just had a electrical problem last month. Had the battery tested(good) and replaced the reg/rec. that fixed the problem. I also checked the stator while I was at it. So I know its none of the above.

 

This sounds awfully similar to the problem I am experiencing (I just posted a new thread on it to avoid threadjacking however).

I replaced the R/R, battery, fuel pump, and float needles, cleaned carb, added on another fuel petcock bc the other one was leaking, the plugs are fine, and I am STILL having a problem similar to yours: dying randomly while riding, sometimes not starting after all that.

Somebody please help us poor souls.

 

check the stator every1 always says rect first but sometimes its the stator had a clutch vespa i used to romp on and it used to eat rectifiers till 1 day same problem bought a new rectifier stilldidnt work 1 wire from the stator was frayed and that was the source of like 5 problems i didnt even realize

 

Well I got it running today...

Realized I had the fuel pump wires backwards...

So I put them the right way and everything seemed fine. Took it to bike night out in Green tonight. Rode like new.

Then I left and it started bogging and died. Put the chock on and it started right away. Then turned my idle screw down so it was running at about 3k. Ran great after that. What could be causing this?

 

check the connector for the three yellow wires coming out of the stator going to the voltage regulator where the wires meet the wiring harness. If you had a regulator go this connector can go bad as well and cause intermittent problems. If it looks just a little burnt cut it off and hard wire the wires together or use connectors if you plan on ever removing the wiring harness.