how to take the carbs off any help?
#21
11-19-2010, 10:34 AM
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If you are looking to drain the bowels, which is a great idea, you need not take the carbs off. If you will notice under each carb on the bottom end is an adjustment(drain) screw, that by turning it will allow you to drain the petrol from the bowels. Then you will just have to prime up the carbs with fresh petrol, may take some time to crank it to prime them up. Let me put up a diagram from ron ayers which will show you where the idle control **** is located. At this point in time don't mess with the adjustment screws on the carbs, that will mess up the leanness and richness of the whole thing and that is a real mess.
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...S_-_F3_-_95-96
If you see number 9 that is the screw that attaches to the throttle number 7. The tube and **** that comes off of number 9 screw is the idle control **** and this is what my previous statements have been discussing. If for some reason you don't know exactly what I am discussing, step in back of the bike look to the left and somewhere under the petrol tank should be a **** protruding out. That is the idle control. I hope this helps. To answer your question turn the idle control **** to the left until it stops turning. At that point it won't idle unless you pull on the throttle. Once at that point turn the **** to the right approximately one half to one full turn and then crank up the bike and make adjustment accordingly. I like me bikes to idle around 800-1100 rpms.
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...S_-_F3_-_95-96
If you see number 9 that is the screw that attaches to the throttle number 7. The tube and **** that comes off of number 9 screw is the idle control **** and this is what my previous statements have been discussing. If for some reason you don't know exactly what I am discussing, step in back of the bike look to the left and somewhere under the petrol tank should be a **** protruding out. That is the idle control. I hope this helps. To answer your question turn the idle control **** to the left until it stops turning. At that point it won't idle unless you pull on the throttle. Once at that point turn the **** to the right approximately one half to one full turn and then crank up the bike and make adjustment accordingly. I like me bikes to idle around 800-1100 rpms.
Thanks I knew where the idle control was just not real sure how to tune it in. I think you saved me alot of time to with the carbs lol. I'm still thinking I need to clean them though so I'm not sure what I want to do yet. The main thing I'm fighting is I really need to try and do all this in one day lol, I just moved to Albany and the place I'm living at has no garage so I’m trying to do all this outside, and I really don’t want anything getting wet. Thanks again though all that really did help me.
#22
11-19-2010, 10:37 AM
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Below is a link to carb cleaning posted by dissevered. I used it when I rejetted. Hope this helps, it helped me....
https://cbrforum.com/forum/showthrea...highlight=carb
https://cbrforum.com/forum/showthrea...highlight=carb
#23
11-20-2010, 05:52 AM
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I have heard people complain about Dynojet before, but I thought all went smooth & worked very good. It comes with an assortment of jets, new needles & springs. Instructions & tells you what jets to use for the mods you have. I have Yoshi slip on & K&N filter. I rejetted & felt the difference. Its the only mod I have done where I was actually impressed with the results. It felt like a different bike, very lively. Later I put in a 2 degree ignition advancer, I could not tell any difference with this mod. Seemed same, thats just a little FYI on the advancer, maybe someone else noticed something but not me.. I'm a Georgia boy myself been up here in VT 5 years now.....
#24
11-20-2010, 02:22 PM
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I have heard people complain about Dynojet before, but I thought all went smooth & worked very good. It comes with an assortment of jets, new needles & springs. Instructions & tells you what jets to use for the mods you have. I have Yoshi slip on & K&N filter. I rejetted & felt the difference. Its the only mod I have done where I was actually impressed with the results. It felt like a different bike, very lively. Later I put in a 2 degree ignition advancer, I could not tell any difference with this mod. Seemed same, thats just a little FYI on the advancer, maybe someone else noticed something but not me.. I'm a Georgia boy myself been up here in VT 5 years now.....
#25
11-21-2010, 01:08 AM
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[quote=ga_skyline_rydr;989329]If you are looking to drain the bowels, which is a great idea, you need not take the carbs off.
I dont know what the hell you are talking about. If you want to drain the bowels you dont have to take the carbs off, you would have eat some mexican food and sit on the toilet though, As for the carb bowls, yes you would need to take the carbs off to do that.
I dont know what the hell you are talking about. If you want to drain the bowels you dont have to take the carbs off, you would have eat some mexican food and sit on the toilet though, As for the carb bowls, yes you would need to take the carbs off to do that.
#26
11-21-2010, 07:02 AM
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[quote=mikeyfish;989867]
I want to thank you for calling out my spelling error, sorry I can't be perfect yet. You are correct if you want to change out the float then you would have to pull the carbs apart. The op didn't ask about changing out the float, he merely asked about draining the petrol out. I along with the other posters on here are attempting to give the op the least invasive route to get his bike running well again. I stand uncorrected as to draining the carb bowls. Each one has a screw attached at the end with a drain hole, therefore one can run a tube up to the drain hole and attach it and pull some fuel off to drain out the bowl. Now that is the way it has worked on Suzuki, and Kawasaki. I have never worked on a honda before so just maybe special things have to be done to it. So I thank you for your time adding to this thread. If you have anymore to add please do so. You may want to refer to ronayers.com for the diagrams I am referring to.
If you are looking to drain the bowels, which is a great idea, you need not take the carbs off.
I dont know what the hell you are talking about. If you want to drain the bowels you dont have to take the carbs off, you would have eat some mexican food and sit on the toilet though, As for the carb bowls, yes you would need to take the carbs off to do that.
I dont know what the hell you are talking about. If you want to drain the bowels you dont have to take the carbs off, you would have eat some mexican food and sit on the toilet though, As for the carb bowls, yes you would need to take the carbs off to do that.
I want to thank you for calling out my spelling error, sorry I can't be perfect yet. You are correct if you want to change out the float then you would have to pull the carbs apart. The op didn't ask about changing out the float, he merely asked about draining the petrol out. I along with the other posters on here are attempting to give the op the least invasive route to get his bike running well again. I stand uncorrected as to draining the carb bowls. Each one has a screw attached at the end with a drain hole, therefore one can run a tube up to the drain hole and attach it and pull some fuel off to drain out the bowl. Now that is the way it has worked on Suzuki, and Kawasaki. I have never worked on a honda before so just maybe special things have to be done to it. So I thank you for your time adding to this thread. If you have anymore to add please do so. You may want to refer to ronayers.com for the diagrams I am referring to.
#27
11-21-2010, 01:13 PM
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[quote=ga_skyline_rydr;989890]
I want to thank you for calling out my spelling error, sorry I can't be perfect yet. You are correct if you want to change out the float then you would have to pull the carbs apart. The op didn't ask about changing out the float, he merely asked about draining the petrol out. I along with the other posters on here are attempting to give the op the least invasive route to get his bike running well again. I stand uncorrected as to draining the carb bowls. Each one has a screw attached at the end with a drain hole, therefore one can run a tube up to the drain hole and attach it and pull some fuel off to drain out the bowl. Now that is the way it has worked on Suzuki, and Kawasaki. I have never worked on a honda before so just maybe special things have to be done to it. So I thank you for your time adding to this thread. If you have anymore to add please do so. You may want to refer to ronayers.com for the diagrams I am referring to.
yeah skyline it's the same set up as the Suzukis ect.. That diagram it really helped me out. I'm off tomorrow so it's my day to get started on everything
I want to thank you for calling out my spelling error, sorry I can't be perfect yet. You are correct if you want to change out the float then you would have to pull the carbs apart. The op didn't ask about changing out the float, he merely asked about draining the petrol out. I along with the other posters on here are attempting to give the op the least invasive route to get his bike running well again. I stand uncorrected as to draining the carb bowls. Each one has a screw attached at the end with a drain hole, therefore one can run a tube up to the drain hole and attach it and pull some fuel off to drain out the bowl. Now that is the way it has worked on Suzuki, and Kawasaki. I have never worked on a honda before so just maybe special things have to be done to it. So I thank you for your time adding to this thread. If you have anymore to add please do so. You may want to refer to ronayers.com for the diagrams I am referring to.
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