float valves???
#21
Sounds good and yes my tender has a "start" feature. Will update soon about the ORIGINAL problem, stuck float valves lol. I believe they are unstuck after I cleaned the seats but we'll see after its hooked back up, I believe I'm in the market for a new petcock as well mine is definetely leaking even in off position
#22
put everything back on and it started right up, drove it about a mile it died, ( i had the fuel switch off) went to start it and it wouldnt crank, i think my starter relay is definetly done, put a jump to the same spot i did before and it cranked right up, but then started spitting gas out of the air overflow again =/
since the float valves are brand new, and i cleaned the valve seats thorough, this can only mean my float level is off?
since the float valves are brand new, and i cleaned the valve seats thorough, this can only mean my float level is off?
#23
I'm ignoring the starter issue.
The float level is not adjustable and hence unlikely to be off with new floats unless you have a manufacturing defect. There is no simple answer you have to do the detective work and find out exactly what is going on. Find out which carb is faulty then start checking stuff. To give you examples of what can happen - there is the fault I mentioned above with the starter jet on my CBR and I used to have an ST1100 Pan that wouldn't run right - found one of the float valves had been drilled incorrectly so the float valve wouldn't seat properly. These are just examples you have to look, test & check. Try and narrow down the area. The biggie is find out which carb out of the four.
The float level is not adjustable and hence unlikely to be off with new floats unless you have a manufacturing defect. There is no simple answer you have to do the detective work and find out exactly what is going on. Find out which carb is faulty then start checking stuff. To give you examples of what can happen - there is the fault I mentioned above with the starter jet on my CBR and I used to have an ST1100 Pan that wouldn't run right - found one of the float valves had been drilled incorrectly so the float valve wouldn't seat properly. These are just examples you have to look, test & check. Try and narrow down the area. The biggie is find out which carb out of the four.
#24
i was under the impression that the float level could be off because the floats become deformed? i only bought new float valves, i didn't think that had much to do with the level?
i'll pick up an aux tank and run it the way you mentioned to see which carb it actually is, although i'm reasonably sure its #3
i'll pick up an aux tank and run it the way you mentioned to see which carb it actually is, although i'm reasonably sure its #3
#25
Ha, that's the one that flooded on mine! I'm sure it'll be coincidence though.
#26
#28
yeah i still have the old float valves..i'll take a picture of the old ones, the new ones and the floats as soon as i can, which might not be until friday.
my clymer says to measure the float height with a honda specific tool or equivalent, do you know if i can pick up something to measure it at a store? or improvise something?
my clymer says to measure the float height with a honda specific tool or equivalent, do you know if i can pick up something to measure it at a store? or improvise something?
#29
I use a steel ruler you just have to be careful with parallax effects. You measure where the valve just closes and there is minimum weight on it - well usually, check the manual.
#30
Here are the photo's I mentioned. As for the height, the spec is 13.7 mm. That's going to be really hard to see. This measurement is from the lip of the float bowl seat. Ianp5uk is right, you'll have to be careful how you look at it to make sure you're looking directly across the floats to a ruler. Here you can see it's just shy of 14 mm.