Hey guys so i just got my f4i gauges in the mail today. i am really excited all i am waiting for is my speedoheader to start the swap. but anyway quick question. i know there is a fuel gauge on f4i gauges is there away that i can make that gauge work? How does the gauge work by that i meen is there a float that is put in the take like in a car or somthing else? i am a noob to this swap i am just seeing if anyone has gotten it to work? thanks guys.

 

whoa guys! this is NOT what you are looking for!!!! The temperature sensor is under the tank on the rights side kinda between the frame and the carbs. kinda a PITA to get to it if you don't have a good assortment of tools ( swivels and universals).

The part that you guys are talking about on the radiator is the temperature switch which only controls the cooling fan.

 

# 10 on this diagram is the correct part location
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/1/Make/Honda/YearID/38/Year/1997/ModelID/6748/Model/CBR600F3/GroupID/286808/Group/THERMOSTAT#


and the part number for the 900rr temp sensor is 37750-KV3-951
its 34.29 @ ron ayers

 

The fuel level in the F4I fuel tank is measured by a fuel sensor not a float. I have the F4I gauges on my F3 and I thought about installing this sensor into my fuel tank. It would require my tank to be tapped and welded. Also I don't know what level to put the sensor at anyway to insure its reading the proper fuel level. Just stick with the basics and you will be okay.

 

After a bit of family turmoil and emergencies, I am finally back to working on the CBR. I got some F4i gauges and am doing the swap now. I would like to put an inline fuse on the positive battery (+) connection, but wanted to verify that I am reading the F4i wiring diagram correctly. I see the Red/Green wire (running directly to the positive battery terminal on the F3) going into the F4i fuse block and running across a 10A fuse.



Am I reading this correctly? Has anyone else put an inline fuse on their F4i swap?

Thanks in advance!

 

Well I ended up using the 10amp inline fuse on the positive battery cable. The gauges are now all hooked up properly. I also took Scrufdog's advice and have hooked the gauges up to a software frequency generator. The 3000-4000Hz square wave range simulates 180mph on the speed sensor pickup - slow going when you need to bring them up almost 2,000 miles, but a lot cheaper than sending them away to someone else to change the odometer to match my old gauges. Pictures below.





I also just finished cutting and drilling the piece of acrylic to mount them onto the fairing stay. It is a quarter-inch thick piece of acrylic (sold as Plexigass and several other brands). I put in an order for some of the carbon fiber vinyl from an ebay dealer, so I will be covering the clear mount in that as soon as it arrives.

 

The carbon fiber vinyl arrived yesterday and I just got done wrapping my custom acrylic mount for the gauges. In the pic below, you can also see the wiring harness that I got for the gauges. I picked up a male and female 14-pin stereo harness (Ford/Lincoln/Mercury/Mazda) from a local car stereo installer shop. Works out pretty well and allows for a quick disconnect if I ever need to take the gauges off in the future.

 

So i did the swap , and it works great and easy to do. Now the temp sensor , any one need f3 gauges with 40,000 miles?

 

I did the swap and it works great but i need to find out why the bike sputters 2 or 3 times now when i open full throttle then clears up, ??? it makes no Cents. thanks

 

Hi guys! So I just completed the swap today everything seems to be good but my turn signals... the problem is that they flash erratically, starting fast and then slowly diminishing in speed... that and both flush mount rear turn signals flash together... has anyone else had this problem? is it the gauge itself, maybe a relay, bad ground / improper connection?