Whenever you take the carbs apart, needles out, and do a cleaning like that you need to do a full sync and tune. Sounds like some or all of your carbs are way out..

See dirt's carb cleaning How-to. I think it's stickied.

 

ya ive seen that. my 3 and 4 are firing but my 1 and 2 are not after it idle'd for short time the 3 and 4 cylinders of the header were warm and 1 and 2 were cold. i think i just need to adjust my jets cause they are tightened all the way down now and i just dont know how much to turn them out. does anyone on here know?

 

Before you can adjust the A/F ratios you need to sync your carbs.

Get a service manual, which will give you some specifics.

Also, do some searches for the specifics you're asking about and also Idodirt's carb cleaning how-to. There is a wealth of info.

 

do you have to sync your carbs even if i didnt even touch the synchronizers? i only took off the jets and sprayed those out, but i didnt re-adjust the jets when i put them back in....

 

The only way to adjust the jets is to change them out for a different size. Your carbs are overflowing because the fuel flowing into them is not being stopped. The float needles are what allows fuel to flow into the carbs & stop it when it get too high. The fuel overflow issue needs to be addressed. A carb synch will not even cure that problem.

If the "jets" you are talking about are actually the fuel mixture screw. Then the initial opening is 1 1/2 turns before the idle drop procedure. Try about 1 3/4.

As for the overflow problem try as I said with the pollish & Q-tip. We do it all the time here at the shop with float seats that are not replaceable.

 

Any time you clean the carbs, mess with the needles, or do anything internally with them you should do a sync.

I'm surprised Idodirt hasn't chimed in here, as he's the resident expert. He must be busy, but when he arrives he should be able to help you with some better specifics on troubleshooting and potential issues.

Seriously though, if you don't have a service manual you should get one. All of these questions could probably be cleared up in large part by a bit of reading.

 

Ya i was referring to the "main jet" and the "slow jet" i guess? but after i tighten them down all the way i turn both of the jets 1 and 3/4 turns open?

i havnt touched the pilot screws yet either and i didnt take them off when i cleaned them.

 

should can, but should take out those jets when cleaning. you can clean with them in the carbs and wont have to worry about resync.

 

CBRMax, I don't think your actually picking up on what Project96 is saying to you. The jets in the carburetors are fixed sizes and not adjustable. The only thing you can do with the jets is to replace them with a different size. The jets are always screwed in all the way until snug. There is no backing them out a little. The 2 jets that are replaceable have a slot in them for a flat blade screwdriver.

There is another "screw" called the "Pilot Screw" that is not inside the float area and the head on that screw is "D" shaped. You need a special tool to remove it and adjust it. It is only adjusted when the carbs are on the bike, and after they've been synch'd. Then there is a specific procedure for adjusting them. But that's a whole other subject.

Now, as Project96 said, you need to focus on the float needle and seat area. That is the cause of your carbs over filling. Do what Project96 said.

• Top arrow, float needle seat - needs to be polished and clean.
• Middle arrow, Jets, main and idle - can only be replaced, but screwed in snugly.
• Bottom arrow, Pilot Screw - needs "D" shaped tool for removal and adjustment.