Hey guys, its been awhile since my last update... I've had a ton of work for school I had to see through.

A few updates, broke the bike down further and got the carbs out... A friend of mine who's studying auto tech at the local college has been helping me out with a few things... She's actually looking into getting a bike of her own, so thats kinda cool.

We took off the carbs about a month ago, and she took them apart so we could clean them using carb cleaner (she also works at an O'Reillys, so she can usually help me out with parts and stuff). Right after we took the carbs off and cleaned them, midterms and spring break happened, and now its finals... and we forgot how we took the carbs apart...

I was wondering if theres a guide or something that could help us out.

Also, we had to take a lot of hoses and stuff off of it... I'm guessing the service manual would be able to help us out with reconnecting everything?

As always, your help is invaluable, an GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

 

You should be able to find an exploded diagram of the carburetor and of the hose routing in your service manual. There's also a good PDF copy of the manual available on the net.

Main thing to realize is the smallest hose nipples on the bottom left and right extremes are for the coolant hoses, the three medium size connections on the back side middle are for the fuel lines and the larger lines on the top of the carbs is for the air system.

Be sure to check your fuel enrichment valves and the long bracket for smooth action, and connect the throttle cable before you put the carbs back on the bike.

Cheers,
Mike

 

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but how would I go about lubricating the fuel enrichment valves? Mine are really creaky, and sliding the long bracket is difficult and when the carbs are the bike the choke cable cant pull them hard enough. Do these slide open at all normally by themselves while the bike is running? Or are they just for the choke?

 

**HOW-TO** Carb Clean 97' CBR 600 F3 - Honda CBR Forum

Here is great how to.

 

The FE valve is a sort of choke for cold starts. There's one on each carb and they're connected together by a stamped sheetmetal bar. They are designed to return to 'off' with a return spring. But when the bar gets distorted (like during carb removal) it binds and doesn't return on its own. A stiff cable also causes this.

My solution was to fabricate a hook out of an old spoke that pulls the valve closed from the left side. Next time I have the carbs off I'll try and straighten the slide so it moves freely and returns on its own. It's warm enough here in Arizona I don't have to use it to start the bike.

Some old school bikes have a simple lever near the carb that was manually flipped on and off.

 

Hi all, I'm back again. Sorry for the absence, I was on the otherside of the planet for school, and just now got around to poking with my bike.

 

Hey all, a slight update.

Slowly breaking the bike down, with the end result dropping the engine. I hear that its advisable to have two people in dropping the engine, but I'm just one guy with a jack... Is that workable?

Also, in removing the wiring harness, I'm noticing a lot of the plastic clips keep breaking, I'm guessing they're just old... Where can I replace them? Are there different ones for different points?

Once I drop the engine, how would I go about breaking it down, so that I can clean it out, figure out whats up with the engine ticking sound, and make it run better?

What I would eventually like to do:

-Replace the wiring harness
-Maybe do a gauge swap to F4i
-Paint the frame (previous owner spraypainted the plastics, forgot/didn't protect the frame
-Replace rear break system (Brake fluid tubes/resevoir -- mechanics seem alright)
-Replace plastics, paint them, replace windshield
-Replace throttle, brake and clutch levers
-Replace bolts, fasteners

Doable for less than 1k?