Also, starting fluid evaporates almost immediately. Spray some in there with the throttle cracked open, let off the throttle tube, and then try to start it right away. Don't give it time to evaporate.

 

ajzcamaro: Thanks for the tip, I'll try that once I have everything pieced back together.

Jeff, Steve: I got myself a compression tester, and a sparkplug tester, I'm gonna play with it the next few days to see what I find.

 

CBR Update 2 - YouTube

One issue that is developing is actually removing the carburetor. I've loosened the throttle cable, and the cable underneath that, as well as the choke cable. I go underneath to the intake manifold, and I can only see/access one screw, the one on the far left port... I was wondering...

1. Are all the screws to the collars accessible from the left side?
2. How do I access the rest?

 

There will be two you get from the left then the other two are on the right side. Shine a light in there and you should be able to see them, and you're going to need a fairly decent length screwdriver

 

Yeah they are a pain to locate the first time and a LONG screwdriver helps a lot.

Once i got mine off I sprayed the heads of the screws red so i could find them better, helped a lot until I got use to exactly where they were.

 

Orange, Detroit, thanks for the advice. I kept hearing about getting a loooong screwdriver for it, and that exactly what I have. 2 bucks on clearance at O'Riellys.

So yeah, hopefully I can get everything off of it today and remove it.

As always, thanks, and I'll keep you guys in the loop.

 

I was able to locate all the screws and loosen them up till the collars are loose and moveable... but I'm not able to get the carb out... I was told a "rocking motion" might work?

I've dislocated the throttle, and the choke cable, still working on the cable underneath the top throttle cable... Is there anything I'm missing?

 

Sometimes those boots can be a little difficult.
Keep rocking it and don't be afraid to pull back on it too.

I'm curious why are you pulling the whole engine?
You can set valve clearance while it's in the bike.
Did you magage to do a compression test?
I'd hate to see you rip it out if you didn't have to. Unless of course you just want to do it either way to learn from the experience.

 

Jeff: I'll keep at rocking the carbs back and forth then.

Me pulling out the engine is more for a learning experience than anything else, one that I'm sort of hesitant on doing. The chief complaint of the guy who sold it to me was that there was a ticking sound coming from the engine.

At first, we thought (as well as people on YouTube when there was a video of my bike with a previous owner) it was the cam chain tensioner. We poked around with that when I first got it about a year ago, and found out that it was not the case. As I learned my bike, I found out that it went away, dissipated at higher revs.

September came, and my bike got dropped in a rainstorm. I had just got home from work and parked it on a dirt patch in front of my place. I walked up to the door and heard a crash. Looked back, and my bike had fallen over the sidestand, and was now underneath my roomates truck.

I took it to my local Honda dealership, and paid them 150 bucks to tell me that it turned on fine, but the ticking sound was going to lead to it blowing up on my down the road, and was thought to have something to do with the valves or the pistons. I don't have that much money due to me being a poor college kid, lol, so I pulled the bike out of the shop.

So, if theres a way to check out the valves and the pistons without me dropping the engine, I'm all ears

 

I had trouble getting mine off too i had to use a pry bar to get mine out. I put a towel under it and pried one side until it popped off and rocked the other side off by hand. I dont know if that was dangerous or not but my bike has been running better than ever after i cleaned the carbs and jets.