ugh, i wish i still had my digital f3 manual... i think it's 2.5-3 at 0-6500 feet

 

Backfiring is a classic sign of incorrect ignition timing. Since the plugs were changed, I suspect maybe the plug wires didn't get put back on the right plug. Look closely at the wires. They're numbered, so make sure it's 1,2,3,4 from left to right as you sit on the bike. When you cleaned the carburetors, how far apart did you take them ?

This is what you're looking for.

 

Carbs tunes to 2.5 turns out. Got the bike start after getting the right order. Starts only with throttle???? But now im back to the same problem as before the bike will only idle at 3500. If im riding to a stop and pull the clutch itll idle at 3500 hang then drop after about 10 seconds till it dies, but if im going about 5 mph and engine break then pull the clutch, itll drop to 1000, starts to studd-er-er-er, then dies, so i cant do u turns at all. Makes me think that the idle jets are clogged so bad that once it drop below 4k the engine has no fuel. Its doesnt bog out, just dies. What makes me think that its is also the idle jets now, is the when i run the bike in anygear move above 1k, it jerks like hell. Bike starts with choke on and off but wont idle correctly with choke on or off

 

Idling that high would certainly indicate problems with your idle jets. The passageways for the idle circuits are really small and can be challenging to clean. It's not just cleaning the jets that you can remove, it's getting the passageways in the body of the carburetor body clean as well. Soaking each individual carburetor body in a can of carburetor cleaner overnight would be the most effective method. Doing so however requires splitting the carburetors from each other. You'll want to remove all rubber parts from the bodies because the cleaning solution will damage them.

You're not the first person on the site to have carburetor problems and won't be the last. The biggest thing people can do to get them working right is to do an effective job on cleaning them. Baring any damaged parts, when they're clean, they work like brand new.

 

idle circut is def lean. depending on what u used to clean the brass pilot jets, it may be smart to replace them. compressed air with a blow gun is the best way to clean all the tiny carb circut holes. brass jets are very soft and the tiny holes can be opened up without u being aware. been there, done that.

 

Sometimes I'm amazed that carburetors ever worked to begin with. It's amazing what we did with analog technology.

 

i always wondered why bikes still had carbs cause they are the reason for so many issues, esp since most have to sit during the off season. i learned to drain the carbs and have always used Sta-Bil in the off season. i would imagine the injectors clog also in down time. fuel injection creates instant throttle response on my bros 2001 cbr xx. i figured it was about the cost but not sure.

 

Carbs have worked for a LONG time. They are still used to this day on some engines. Ethanol gas has posed a lot of issues, but if taken care of, they will continue to work. I know that fuel injection is better, but if you choose to use the older machines, then you have to learn to deal with them. Just be thankful you do not have points to deal with!

 

I've had a couple of cars that were fitted with points (yes, I'm THAT old). They were tough to keep running well, but I used to sand the points clean and re-set them. Gave great performance for a while...

 

I do remember doing that. I think the last car I had that had points was a 76 Datsun B-210.