Ok. I'll touch base if I get stuck or hopefully after its completed!

 

Question, I've been looking at making a sync tool. The only part not explained in detail is the connection to my bike. What would I need there? Have you made one of these yourself?

 

I have never built one. To connect to the carbs, #'s 2, 3 & 4 should be as easy as slipping a length of tubing of the nipple that protrudes on the side of the carb. I would guess the it would be around 1/4 ID. #1 has a threaded female port. You'd need to find something that would screw into that yet have enough of a hollow passageway to allow for the vacuum flow.

 

Ok, just finished my first attempt at syncing the carbs. First gotta say these carb sync gauges suck. The gauges got stuck a few times, no instructions. Anyway, take a look at the video to see how close I am. Still not perfect and I should have take an initial video. At least 2 of them were pretty for off. Now, they are are close. I could tweak 1 and 2 a bit more but it seemed like I was dancing a round a bit. Took it out for a spin and its a totally different bike than where I started. Seemed sluggish before and now it has quick response to the throttle. I also put on a new gas pump and cam chain tensioner. Let me know what you think. Should I fine tune this more?

 

If I can offer a tip, on the sync guages, on each line, there should have been a fitting that had a knurled **** on it. From the video it appears that the ***** are opened too much. with the bike running, close each **** all the way. Then just crack it open enough for the needle to move. If you do that, you will see that the bouncing of the needles will settle down. There should not be any erratic movement on the needle.
Also, you can calibrate the guages by hooking them up up 1 at a time to the same carb. Say you hook the 1st guage to carb #1, record the value on the guage. Then hook guage 2 to carb 1 and if it doesn't give you the same reasing, you can unscrew the clear cover on ehr guage and adjustt the screw in the center so it matches what guage 1 had. Repeat until you have all four the same.
Then hook everything back up and see what it shows.
You can be as fine tuned as you want. The closer everything is, the better your bike will perform.
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Wow, thanks hamlin! I did find the fittings. Again, wish these thing came with instructions. I ended up popping of the needles on a couple of the gauges to start them as close to the same spot as possible. I don’t see any screw adjustment on the gauge.

 

You are very welcome. Yea, it looks like your gauges don't have the adjustment screw. What you did was probably just as good.
From your reply, it sounds like the ***** weren't installed. You will just need to place them inline on each vacuum line at the spot of your choosing. I prefer mine closer to the gauges.
Also, as far as fine tuning goes, the service manual states:
"Carburetor vacuum difference: Within 30 mm Hg t1 .2ln Hg)"
So basically everything needs to be 30mm or less using carb #3 as the base. It doesn't matter what that base number is.
Remember less is better when making a tweak during this exercise. Several tiny adjustments is easier and less frustrating in the long run that making 1/2 turns each time and throwing the others out of sync.

 

Ok. While adjusting, it seemed as I was backing off the screw on one of the carbs, it hit a point it wouldn't drop anymore on the gauge, even though I needed to drop it down a bit more. Does that sound familiar? Is that then a jet adjustment?

 

I doubt it is jet related. If anything, it may indicate that the valves need shimming. Since these are vacuum based carbs, the valves are the source of that vacuum. If they're off, everything else will be also.
When performing the sync you are doing it at idle, just blipping the throttle after adjustments, not revving it.
Also you need to keep bringing the idle to 1,200 rpm using idle adjustment ****.

 

Ok, new video attached. Still not 100% happy with these gauges, still stick sometimes. Anyway, I have 2-4 pretty close while idling at 1200-1500 rpm. Take a look at #1 though. It’s off a bit but notice the vibration in the black plate (not sure technical term off hand). What is causing that?