Background:

I just bought a '95 CBR 600F3 (49, non-CA). The previous owner has left over half the screws of the air -box out, most of the screws holding the carburetor locking plates are also missing, cracked vacuum lines, missing air-boots...a real mess.
It has a slip-on exhaust with 'SBK' stamped on the end, it has no other markings. A quick search reveals a Leo Vince SBK? I've never done any aftermarket exhaust stuff, I've always stuck to stock (I come from a Honda Goldwing background).
I want to go with a

Uni NU-4124

Uni NU-4124

air filter unless someone knows better aside from K&N. I'd rather go stock than K&N, I don't like K&N, too little filtering, too much air, not interested in going that route.
I'm getting all of the screws and replacing the vacuum lines, and I've done an air-solenoid deletion already.
Previous owner had carburetors (1, 2, 3, 4) at 140M 140M 138M 138M. ...Yeah, no idea what they were doing. Stock is 1+4 135M, 2+3 138M, in pairing. The pilot lets were left stock.

Thread:

I'd like to know if anyone else has gone with this Leo Vince SBK slip-on exhaust, it sounds nice, and I'd like to keep it rather than going deaf trying to make people think 'i hav big pp' (please kids, it's just annoying people and people tend to think the opposite) crap. What jets have you been using? How many turns out on pilot screws? Using a UNI filter or stock?
Does anyone know of some aftermarket inline air-filters to replace those expensive pods for the sub-air lines? I'd like to just 3D-print new ones with tabs on the sides so that I can put in a nut and screw and simply buy $1 common-filters for small-engines and cut-to-size.

Edit(s):

The previous owner also put a sprocket on from a completely different bike, not even a 520-530, the pitch is bigger. It's a project bike that has had nearly zero maintenance, an idiot with a Dremel tried to delete the fender and nicked some frame, et cetera. I'm going to be a bit more studious regarding future purchases... I'll replace the front and rear sprockets, JT Steel.
I've already pulled the carburetors and cleaned them up, though I may do it again in Chem-Dip with non-metal stuff removed. I'm going to later bench-synchronize them (dynamic-synchronize when finally rebuilt and installed).
I thought the owner had needle shims, the first shim in each carburetor is stock, apparently.

This isn't for racing, it's just for casual riding around at 950ft, but I love riding in freezing temps...and will probably ride summer too, up to 105F roughly? Upstate New York, Southern Tier. Some jet 'calculators' suggest 140M 142M 142M 140M, 42P 42P 42P 42P, 2S, my altitude and setup...but I don't know much about this exhaust, I can't find any information on it, let alone how the UNI filter will affect things. I haven't even considered advancing the timing 4-degrees, at which the calculators propose 142M 145M 145M 142M in the previous suggestion. (They all assume K&N Air Filter.) *shrug*

Does anyone know the air vent tube size(s)? I'm thinking 12mm and 14mm?

Edit: I basically eliminated all air vent tubes aside from rebuilding the pods and putting new UNI filters inside of those (the cut-size kind). Went 140 142 142 140 and 42 42 42 42 and 2 shims per needle, started at 2 turns out on idle mixture. At the moment, my throttle linkage is a bit borked, and it isn't letting the butterfly valves aren't closing all the way, though I did sync the carbs first on bench and then on bike, only off by 5% on one cylinder. That being said...if the idle screw isn't turned up, it won't idle. Idle mixture screws do nothing, so I've definitely got a low-end issue. I'll follow up after some tinkering to address this. The bike accelerates and blips beautifully, no popping on deceleration either, but it will dip in RPMs after a quick blips, by about maybe 200-300RPM until it stabilizes. I think the idle circuits are too rich, but with the linkage issue and all, I haven't gotten any turns with the screws to make a difference. I'm going to free up the linkage entirely and then meet the idle screw to the stop and turn it maybe once, just enough to set an idle, then try again. Could just be bad linkage and overly rich idle circuits. (I did an air-solenoid delete, I have them venting from a rebuilt pod straight from air.)

Edit: I thought I read about these bikes not having handles for the rear, such as for lifting and moving them. The European models (Sweden?) have them, does anyone know of an easy cross-fit?

 

Ohhhhh what i can say is the f3, like all carbed bikes with ram air are infamously fussy with intake mods/tuning.

Theres a thread somewhere showing dyno charts of a f3 with aftermarket exhaust and standard filter with carbs tuned to suit vs the same bike, same exhaust on k&n and tuned to suit. the takeaway being standard filter provided better results all round. Wish i could find the thread to revisit it though.

Paper filter, decent exhaust and tuned to suit is the way on these bikes from all i've seen unless delving into substantial engine builds.


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I've thought about sticking to a paper filter and just jetting, for now I'm dealing with leaky float needles/seats on two cylinders, but I did end up just doing the solenoid deletions (freaking useless, them) and I'm decently tuned at 140 142 142 140, 40 40 40 40 (may swap to 42s), with turns making no difference (clueless about this, might be the leaky floats throwing things off, though it is rare they act up)... I do wish we could go with some other kind of airbox, these things deform with age and just suck.