not sure, i would get a haynes manual, it gives you step by step instructions.. but i cant see what would be so different about it..

 

Bindel,
Could you tell me the proper procedure of tightening the clutch springs?
I read the article on how to do the F4 clutch install, but torquing to 9 ft/lbs puts the plate way too far from the clutch arm.

Replacing the shift forks was a piece of cake. I rolled the bike up onto my car trailer and laid her down on her side (all plastics removed) on some wood blocks. It took longer to move the trailer/get the bike on than it did to take the oil pan off and replace the forks LOL! Now I've got it all back together, but I can't get the clutch to disengage. I've tried different distances for the clutch plate and none of them seem to work. Help!

I'm referrning to #11 in this picture:
http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandi.../H01420016.gif

Bike Bandit calls it the PLATE, CLUTCH LIFTER

Thanks for all your help!

 

sorry to bring up and old post but working on this right now on my 96 900. I can't get the clutch nut off. Mine is riveted on, the problem is that its in first gear. I try and turn the nut but its rotates the back wheel. I sat on the bike with the rear break pressed down and i guess I can't get enough traction because the wheel just spins.

I know I need to un-rivet the nut. But the nut is still tourqued to 94ft/lbs.
Anyone have a idea how to get it off?

Thanks

 

i took a small screwdriver and hammered it under the slot so that it was not indented then put a screwdriver in the clutch basket and it backed out fine.. or get a good grip on it ,apply the rear brakeand air ratchet it off.