I get where Underground is coming from - for me, I use the Honda manual for the absolute authority on torque settings, capacaties, etc., but personally, I have all three: Honda, Clymer, and Haynes... I've used the Haynes the most, but a have used them all. All my frequently used torque settings are written on a sheet, on the wall of my garage, and I've had this thing apart so many times, I don't even consult that very much - I haven't actually opened my manuals for longer than I can remember!!
But like Frank said, get something, it will be worth the expense.

 

Well, I need to replace my torque wrench before I start my reassembly portion. How much of this bike is steel? It feels very light compared to my gsxr and the cb750 I'm working on.

 

Frame/swing arm is steel and will definatley rust in no time. Maybe run a torque wrench around all the primary bolts on the motor and swing arm for a safety measure. An ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of the cure. Safety First!

 

Thanks for the advice. I noticed the tubing for the tail section isn't closed off, is there any corrosion issues with that area?

 

So I got some more done on the bike this week. I finally decided to break down and buy a pair of stands and they were well worth the money. I also got a got a kick *** deal on a 97 F3 tank off a smokin joes edition. Im in love with the color and its helped me finalize my decision on the color scheme. With the purchase of the stands I got the wheels removed and cleaned and took that time to inspect my rotors. The rear rotor is f-ed hard core. Even the pads are screwed. fronts seem fine. I've also discovered that the fork seal on one side is leaking, so it may be time for a new pair of seals.


the rear rotor


even the pads

I also spent some time and got the harness labeled and pulled.

I discovered this as well.



I think this is the R/R right? Is this a problem?? The bike ran when I got it but it really concerns me..
I also recieved a free jet kit, anyone know if it will work for my CBR??

 

I few responses and comments:

1) I don't have any personal experience on whether or not the tank will fit, but I assume it would, however, if it's interchangable, you should use the F2 fuel petcock, that came with the bike. The F2 uses gravity feed for filling the carbs - the initial feed is vacuum actuated, and will shut off after a certain interval, when there is no longer vacuum applied. The F3's used a fuel pump, so when the petcock is on, it's on all the time, and not vacuum actuated - this could lead to over-filling the bowls, making a mess, or worse, filling the cylinders with fuel and giving you the opportunity to mistakenly hydrolock the motor upon starting... bottom line, use the F2 petcock if you can, if not, make SURE you turn it to the off position before you park it for long bits.

2) Yes, that is your R/R, and yes, that is a problem. If you can salvage the plug, then great, but definitely replace the R/R. There are a lot of aftermaket options, which have cooling fins to dissapate heat, so that they don't fry like the original units did. A little research will show you that you can use some R/R units from certain GSX-R's and R6's, and maybe others as well.

3) All the DynoJet boxes look similar - you might try to cross-reference any part number you find inside, to try to identify what it was made for. Yes, DynoJet made jet kits for the F2, the question is, is that what's in the box?!?

Good luck with all your work, and keep us posted - pictures of project progress is like catnip for us peoples!!

 

Amen!