Cleaned my carbs, bike still stalls once it heats up???
Well, first things first, don't attempt to sync your carbs without the right tool. You probably should go buy the gauges just to get a sync done and out of the way. You could have the same problem johnny had where the sync was so out of whack.
How well does it idle? I can't imagine that it idles all that nice with 2 cylinders missing. Can you let it idle around 1000rpms without the tach bouncing around? Rough idle needs a sync for sure, but you probably need one anyway.
Did you ever do a compression check?
How well does it idle? I can't imagine that it idles all that nice with 2 cylinders missing. Can you let it idle around 1000rpms without the tach bouncing around? Rough idle needs a sync for sure, but you probably need one anyway.
Did you ever do a compression check?
I choose to sync my carbs on account that I had not much to lose on account of it sitting in the garage getting me no where. I figured if it was that off me attempting it would maybe fix it. I plan on taking it to school once it is running well enough to get me down the road, let alone 20 miles to the college.
Talked to my teacher, he has a strong feeling that it could be the little tab on the float that stops the gas from filling up the bowl. He said it is probably bent so its not effecting the needle enough, now I am pretty sure the little tab (on this paticular carb) is attached to the float. My maybe the needle fell out of that little slot in the float.
It idles great, it fluxuates +/- 100rmp's but nothing horrible. When I start it, it runs on all 4. It runs on 2 when it dies.
Also this explains the reason it dies after a mile or so, that is how much im getting out of the bowls worth of gas.
Talked to my teacher, he has a strong feeling that it could be the little tab on the float that stops the gas from filling up the bowl. He said it is probably bent so its not effecting the needle enough, now I am pretty sure the little tab (on this paticular carb) is attached to the float. My maybe the needle fell out of that little slot in the float.
It idles great, it fluxuates +/- 100rmp's but nothing horrible. When I start it, it runs on all 4. It runs on 2 when it dies.
Also this explains the reason it dies after a mile or so, that is how much im getting out of the bowls worth of gas.
great theory except for the fact that F2s don't have adjustable floats, nothing got bent. look, all plastic. http://www.dissevered.com/images/carbs/carb9.jpg
It runs fine at idle... revs up fine as well? This means that the floats are not completely shut. It is possible that they are half stuck... giving enough fuel for idle but not for running speed. you said you cleaned your carbs... if they move nicely then that is not your problem.
One way to tell if it is the floats is go ride it, take a flat head with you and get it to stall... when it stalls, open up all the float bowl screws, if they all have fuel in them, its not the floats. If they don't have fuel, it IS the floats or something before the floats.
Other than the fuel passages into those 2 carbs being blocked or gunked, this sounds exactly what my bike went through when I had a main jet clogged. Mine would stall and run on 1 cylinder when it got up to 7500 rpms. If yours stalls lower, I would triple check your needles and diaphrams as well as your needle jet and main jet.
I am not sure how thorough you were on your carb cleaning but I would re check everything in detail.
It runs fine at idle... revs up fine as well? This means that the floats are not completely shut. It is possible that they are half stuck... giving enough fuel for idle but not for running speed. you said you cleaned your carbs... if they move nicely then that is not your problem.
One way to tell if it is the floats is go ride it, take a flat head with you and get it to stall... when it stalls, open up all the float bowl screws, if they all have fuel in them, its not the floats. If they don't have fuel, it IS the floats or something before the floats.
Other than the fuel passages into those 2 carbs being blocked or gunked, this sounds exactly what my bike went through when I had a main jet clogged. Mine would stall and run on 1 cylinder when it got up to 7500 rpms. If yours stalls lower, I would triple check your needles and diaphrams as well as your needle jet and main jet.
I am not sure how thorough you were on your carb cleaning but I would re check everything in detail.
Yeah I knew it was plastic but I didn't think of it until I left school.
Yes, it revs fine and idles fine. I will check to see if they are getting gas after it stalls.
If they are getting gas i will take the carbs apart and double check everything.
Yes, it revs fine and idles fine. I will check to see if they are getting gas after it stalls.
If they are getting gas i will take the carbs apart and double check everything.
Soaked the jets over night. Either one of my jets was super clogged or I think my right side of the carb wasn't set down all the way. Drove it ran very well. Tomorrow im filling up the tank and seeing how it does.
So basically my air to fuel ratio was all messed up on account of 3 and 4 cyl boots not set on the intake manifold.
Thanks for all the help guys and ill keep you updated!!!
So basically my air to fuel ratio was all messed up on account of 3 and 4 cyl boots not set on the intake manifold.
Thanks for all the help guys and ill keep you updated!!!
Ive tried finiding it in other places with no luck but if i clean my carbs will that require me to sync them after i finish? Or should i be able to just put them back in? This is my only source of transportation right now so i dont wanna do something and then be stuck till i can get a truck.
It's a homemade carb sync tool. I'm going to give it a go soon as I can find the stuff for it. My bike is acting up and might need to do this after I try cleaning them again


